My first trip to Japan in winter was unspectacular—you might even say it was bad. It was late January 2015 and I headed to Hokkaido, but not to ski. Although local tourism authorities had helped me put together an itinerary, I was woefully underprepared, and left Japan the second week February feeling like I’d missed […]
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Fabulous Fukuoka
I was at a sushi restaurant in Kanazawa a few years ago, chatting with a young British traveler, when she engaged me as if I was a Fukuoka travel guide. “I wasn’t even sure if it was worth visiting,” the young woman explained, noting that she’d only decided to stop a night in the city […]
Continue ReadingThe Best of Japan in One Month
Among the many tips for travel to Japan I offer on this site, my most important is to spend as much time here as possible—one month in Japan or even longer. While Japanese trains are efficient and Japan’s cities are organized well enough to see in a relatively short number of days, there are just […]
Continue Reading10 Amazing Japanese Foods That Aren’t Sushi
Culinarily speaking, Japan is as much a land of discovery as it is for culture, history, scenery and all the other reasons we love it.
Continue ReadingJapan’s Greatest Gardens
You don’t need to be a horticulturist to appreciate the best gardens in Japan.
Continue ReadingKansai Starts Here
One of the most common questions I get is how many days in Osaka and Kyoto to spend—so I decided to write a Kansai travel guide about it! This question isn’t a black-and-white one however, and my response to it is cut-and-dry. As you decide how to long to spend in Japan’s Kansai region (the […]
Continue ReadingIs Kanazawa or Takayama Better for Travelers?
I’m not sure why so many people mention Kanazawa and Takayama in the same conversation.
Continue ReadingMy Love Affair With Matsuyama
No matter what brings you to the largest city in Shikoku, one thing is clear.
Continue ReadingThe Truth About Japan in Summer
Over the years, I’ve really come around to the idea of visiting Japan in summer. Like you probably are if your internet search has taken you to this page, I dismissed a trip to Japan during this time—the thought of the heat, humidity and rain just wasn’t appealing. I can’t lie: Japan can be all […]
Continue ReadingDiscover the Japanese Alps
Putting together a Japanese Alps itinerary is difficult first and foremost because the region is so huge and varied. It’s also highly seasonal—you can walk through a “snow tunnel” on the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route in June, then hike amid wildflowers there literally weeks later in July. Over the next few paragraphs, I’ll do my […]
Continue ReadingThe Truth About Renting a Car in Japan
On its face, the idea of renting a car in Japan is a good one, especially if you plan to explore a rural or exurban part of the country, or with enough people that the cost is similar to going by train or bus. That’s certainly how I felt before the first time I got […]
Continue ReadingPromise of the Petals
They weren’t pulverized—they had vaporized.
Continue ReadingHow to See Cherry Blossoms in Japan
If you want to experience the magic of cherry blossom season in Japan, 2024 will be your next chance. 2023’s season (which was magnificent, by the way) is now over. Of course, no matter when you end up making it to Japan, the so-called “cherry blossom front” begins in the south and west—Kyushu and Shikoku […]
Continue ReadingJapan for Newbies
My first lesson about planning your first trip to Japan: Don’t count on it being the last.
Continue ReadingThe Low-Key Best Month to Visit Japan
There are almost no downsides to visiting Japan in May.
Continue ReadingMake 2023 the Year You Visit Japan
There’s no good reason not to visit Japan in 2023.
Continue ReadingThe Truth About Japan’s Castle in the Clouds
I do love a good Japanese castle, even if Takeda-jo is little more than ruins.
Continue ReadingJapan’s Most Underrated Cities
The best cities to visit in Japan aren’t always ones you read about in guide books
Continue ReadingSetouchi Starts Here
I’m not ignorant: I know that only a few people are searching the internet for a Setouchi travel guide. Many people don’t even know that a Japanese region called “Setouchi” exists! Indeed, if I were more practically minded, I might’ve optimized this page to be a “Chugoku travel guide” or even rolled it into the […]
Continue ReadingThe Best Setouchi Base
Both of these cities, which anchor Japan’s underrated Setouchi reason, are very much worth visiting.
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