Travelers tend to associate Fukushima (to the extent that they understand a single thing about it) with the coast. Namely, a tsunami-ravaged coast with spent nuclear fuel leaking into it.
This isn’t fair for a variety of reasons, among them the fact that most of Fukushima has negligible background radiation levels these days. It’s also highly inaccurate: Many of the best places to visit in Fukushima aren’t high up in the mountains, hours away from the sea. Aizu-Wakamatsu is one of them.
And, is Aizu-Wakamatsu worth visiting? Well, I’ve written this article, so I think you can probably guess the answer. Then again, this place is more complex than a yes/no question.
Aizu-Wakamatsu is Fukushima’s Easiest First Destination
The ease of enjoying yourself is one of the things that most makes Aizu-Wakamatsu worth visiting. Like so many of Japan’s great tourist destinations, you can enjoy several amazing attractions within a manageable walk of the train station, and also have many food options as well. This is in contrast to other places in Fukushima, many of which are so far apart from one another that you really need a car.
Now, with this being said, Aizu-Wakamatsu is not as easy to reach as cities like Fukushima City and Koriyama—These are both directly along the Shinkansen. By contrast, in order to reach Aizu-Wakamatsu, you need to ride a local train along the JR Ban-etsu Line once you get off the bullet train. Or, if you’re coming from Niigata, you can ride a bus instead.
What to Do in Aizu-Wakamatsu
Explore the grounds of Tsuruga Castle
As is the case for all but 12 of the structures in Japan, Aizu-Wakamatsu’s Tsuruga Castle is not among Japan’s original castles. Still, it is unique, on account of its orange-red roof, to say nothing of how beautiful Mt. Bandai looks rising over it on a clear day. Tsuruga-jo is particularly gorgeous amid the autumn colors and cherry blossoms of spring, but is beautiful in any season.
Get dizzy at Sazae-do
Another essential addition to your Aizu-Wakamatsu itinerary is Sazae-do, a unique octagon-shaped temple that you can go inside and climb up. I’ll be honest that it can be a bit intimidating. After you finish her, make sure to enjoy the view of the town, with snow-capped mountains rising behind it in all but the very hottest parts of the summer.
Enjoy a meal of sauce katsu
Fukushima is generally a foodie paradise, but Aizu itself is among the best places to eat a particularly satisfying dish. I’m talking, of course, about “sauce katsu.” As its name suggests, this dish smothers tonkatsu pork cutlets in a savory, sweet sauce, one that’s not entirely un-reminiscent of misokatsu in Nagoya. The small restaurant at the Igarashi Tourist Center just across from Sazae-do is a great place to enjoy it.
Take a day trip to Ouchi-juku
Beyond the things to do in Aizu-Wakamatsu itself, there’s plenty to explore on the outskirts. The Ouchi-juku old street is one of my favorites, especially in autumn. Do keep in mind that getting here can be cumbersome, at least unless you’re comfortable renting a car. You’ll need to ride a local JR Ban-etsu Line train to Yunokami Onsen, and then get a bus from there.
(Or along the Bandai-Azuma Skyline)
Speaking of Fukushima in autumn, the “five-colored” Goshiki-numa ponds along the scenic Bandai-Azuma Skyline are especially gorgeous when the leaves around them are orange and red. The rest of the road is gorgeous anytime of year, whether you ride a swan boat on massive Lake Inawashiro, or gain some altitude on various hiking trails.
How Long Do You Need in Aizu-Wakamatsu?
Aizu-Wakamatsu itself isn’t big. In fact, if you simply wanted to explore destinations within the town center, you could come on a day trip. This is especially doable if you have a car, which saves you from having to contend with the slow speeds and not-so-frequent departures of the JR Ban-etsu Line. But to be honest, you could still do a day trip, even if you have to depend on the train.
Now, if you plan to use Aizu as a base rather than as an end-all, be-all, the discussion about how many days in Aizu-Wakamatsu you need changes. You’ll probably want to spend an extra day visiting Ouchi-juku, particularly if you’re depending upon public transportation to get there. Likewise, the Bandai-Azuma Skyline requires a full day for most people.
Other FAQ About Visiting Aizu-Wakamatsu
How long to spend in Ouchi-juku?
Ouchi-juku is effectively just one street. Whether you sit down for soba noodles or enjoy a view of town through a frame of colorful autumn leaves, you don’t need longer than half a day there. On the other hand, it will take some time to get there and back, so keep that in mind.
How do I get to Ouchi-juku from Tokyo?
Getting to Ouchi-juku from Tokyo is complicated—if you go entirely by public transportation, you’ll likely need to spend the night in either Aizu or Koriyama. From Aizu, you need to ride the JR Ban-Etsu Line to Yunokami Onsen Station, and a Saruyu-go Bus from there.
Is Aizu-Wakamatsu safe?
Aizu-Wakamatsu, like much of the rest of Japan, has an extremely high level of personal safety, with virtually no risk of violent or even petty crime. With regard to Fukushima’s much-hyped radiation, there is absolutely none in Aizu, which has actually been the case even since days after the disaster.
The Bottom Line
Is Aizu-Wakamatsu worth visiting? Certainly, it’s among the most gratifying places in Fukushima prefecture, which is why so many tourists make it their first stop in this part of Japan. For some travelers, attractions in the center of Aizu are plenty interesting. These include red-roofed Tsuruga Castle, and the strange octagonal temple known as Sazae-do. Others will rent a car and explore more deeply, be it to the Ouchi-juku old street, or to natural destinations along the Bandai-Azuma Skyline road. Want to make sure Fukushima-ken fits in perfectly with the rest of your time in Japan? Hire me to plan a custom Japan itinerary today!
