Upon returning from my latest trip to Japan, I sat down to update my posts on the Japanese Alps. And then I realized something: The main page (i.e. this one, if you’re reading it now) needed more than an update—it needed a total rewrite.
The “old” version wasn’t bad, per se. But it was very old. In fact, it was more or less the original text that I created way back in 2018, when I launched this website. It’s 2026—almost a decade later—as I write this new version.
Now, neither these ancient mountains nor the centuries-old heritage they ensconce has changed much in just a few years. What has evolved? My own knowledge, insights and experience, which I hope will make my “new” Japanese Alps itinerary even more helpful to you than its previous iteration was.
How to Reach the Japanese Alps
You can reach the Japanese Alps from Tokyo in several ways, depending upon where your destination is:
- If you plan to base yourself in Nagano, you can ride one of the frequent Shinkansen trains directly to Nagano Station from Tokyo and Ueno Stations.
- If you’re bound for Matsumoto, meanwhile, you’ll need to ride an Azusa Limited Express from Shinjuku Station. These generally depart at least once per hour.
- Reaching either Takayama or Magome (i.e. the beginning of the Nakasendo) requires first riding a Shinkansen to Nagoya. From there, a Hida Limited Express train can take you to Takayama; Magome requires riding a Shinano Limited Express train to Nakatsugawa and a bus from there.
- You can reach the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route via Toyama which, like Nagano, is connected directly to Tokyo and Ueno Stations via the Hokuriku Shinkansen.
- In some cases (i.e. where you’re staying or traveling outside of major destinations), you may need to take onward local train or bus transport. Alternatively, renting a car is almost always an easier option.
Where to Go in the Japanese Alps
Kamikochi
The Kamikochi Valley is one of the most popular destinations in the Japanese Alps, and it’s not hard to understand why. It’s gorgeous, for one; it’s accessible via direct bus from Tokyo, in addition to easy connections (via Hirayu Onsen) from both Matsumoto and Takayama. With this being said, I do always like to give travelers two pieces of advice: It’s more of a walk then a hike (which, for some travelers, is more a feature than a bug); it’s only open each year between about April 15-November 15.
The Nakasendo Way
In the mood for more of an actual hike? The Nakasendo Way might be closer to what you need, though I do warn you: Only part of the trail (specifically, the Torii Pass that towers between the towns of Yabuhara and Narai) requires strenuous hiking. The other section, between Magome and Tsumago, is more of a walk then a hike; the focus here (which, like Kamikochi, will please many travelers) is on cuisine and culture.
TIP: Visiting the Japanese Alps in April? Whether you rent a car and self-drive, or hire a vehicle with a driver from your hotel or minshuku along the Nakasendo, set your GPS for the Hanamomo Kaido “Peach Road.” Thank me later!
Senjojiki Cirque
The first couple of times I visited the Japanese Alps, my Swiss best friend chided me. “The only real Alps,” she insisted, “are the ones in Europe.” Fair enough, I conceded at the time, not having seen much comparable scenery in Japan, beautiful as what I did see was. I changed my opinion, however, when I first hiked the Senjojiki Cirque, a trail in the Chuo (Central) Alps that could easily be in Germany or Switzerland. It’s also a pretty legit hike, if that’s something you’re seeking.
Jigokudani Snow Monkeys
All of the first three places I’ve listed are best during warmer months, but what if you’re visiting the Japanese Alps in winter? In this case, probably the most popular place is Jigokudani, aka Hell Valley, home to Japan’s most famous “snow monkeys.” This is easily accessible as a day trip from both Matsumoto and Nagano, although you can stay overnight in nearby Shibu Onsen (I’ll have a hotel recommendation in just a few paragraphs) if you really want to lead into the experience.
Hakuba
As far as skiing in the Japanese Alps go, Hakuba is probably my pick as a non-very-good skier, though you may have other opinions if you are—this might not even be the closer for you! To be sure, most of my experiences in the Hakuba Valley are either in the Japanese Alps summer or even in the spring (as pictured above), when cherry and peach blossoms and an impossible warmth to this destination that’s so well-known for winter. The Hakuba Mountain Harbor is also a gorgeous autumn vantage point!
Matsumoto
Among large cities in the Japanese Alps, Matsumoto is probably my favorite place to base myself. Obviously, the added benefit to being here is that Matsumoto Castle (one of just 12 original such structures in all of Japan) is just steps from most hotels. Beyond this, many of the other destinations I’ve listed in this itinerary are easily accessible as day trips, including Kamikochi, Takayama, and the eastern reaches of the Nakasendo, including the Torii Pass hike.
Nagano
If I’m honest, I feel less enthused about Nagano as a base, though I’ve never quite understood why. Actually, that’s a lie—there are two main reasons. First, the city’s main attraction (Zenko-ji temple) is a relatively long (and totally uphill) walk from Nagano Station. Secondly, in spite of being a relatively large city, the array of accommodation in town just leaves a lot to be desired. I usually only stay here if I want to explore Nagano prefecture quite deeply but can’t (for whatever reason) stay in Matsumoto.
Togakushi Shrine
One place I love visiting from Nagano City? Togakushi Shrine, whose Cedar Avenue absolutely must be on your list if the Japan Alps best time to visit is winter, for you. It’s beautiful in summer, too, but to me you need feet of snow to truly sense the magic of the place. Logistically, it’s a relatively short bus ride from the Alpico office just opposite Nagano Station, which simplifies getting there.
Takayama, Shirakawa-go and Gokayama
After Matsumoto and Nagano, Takayama is probably the third most popular place to base oneself in the Japanese Alps, for a few reasons. First, the Sanmachi Suji Old Street (and the rest of Old Takayama) is impossibly charming, especially in the early morning and late at night when day tourists are not there. It’s also an excellent base for day trips, whether to the Gassho farmhouse villages of Shirakawa-go, Suganuma and Ainokura (the latter two of which are collectively known as Gokayama), or to the onsen town of Gero.
TIP: Planning to be in Takayama in mid-April? If you can book a hotel early (or don’t mind crowded trains from and back to Nagoya or Toyama), attend the Takayama Spring Matsuri festival, which takes place on April 14 and 15, usually around the full bloom of cherry blossoms. There’s an autumn edition too, but it occurs before the leaves change color, so it’s not really my jam.
Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route
Speaking of Toyama, this city (although not in the Japanese Alps, per se) makes the best base for a trip onto the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route. My personal favorite time to come here is in spring, just after it opens for the year, when the “snow tunnel” in Murodo boasts its namesake towering walls. However, you can also visit in autumn, whether as a full circuit, or simply an à la carte day trip to Kurobe Gorge.
Where to Stay in the Japan Alps
As you can imagine, I’ve built up quite the rolodex of accommodation options in the Japanese Alps, though these vary depending upon where in the region you stay:
- In Nagano city, a utilitarian business hotel like the APA Hotel Nagano is the best choice. If you’re skiing, meanwhile, the Marrilen Hotel is my favorite lift-access property in Hakuba; charming Yudanaka Onsen Yamazakiya in haunting Shibu Onsen makes for a great winter stay for non-skiers.
- On the Matsumoto side, meanwhile, Tabino Hotel lit is probably my favorite city hotel option. However, if you’ll be renting a car, then a more authentic property like Miyama Ouan up in Hirayu Onsen might be a better bet.
- Staying in Takayama? If you prefer a ryokan, I like Machiyado Ichiryu; the Machiya Hotel is a great option if you’re seeing a proper Western-style hotel with Japanese accents.
- Along the Nakasendo, there’s less accommodation that you can easily book online, though Magome Chaya in Magome, Kiso Mikawaya in Kiso-Fukushima and Byaku in Narai are exceptions to this rule.
- For the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route, you’ll want to base yourself in Toyama, where the affordable Hotel JAL City Toyama is usually my preferred base.
TIP: If you hire me to plan out a Japan Alps itinerary, I’ll provide you with personalized daily recommendations for hotel and ryokan.
Other FAQ About Visiting the Japanese Alps
When is the best time to visit the Japanese Alps?
Considering the Japanese Alps in October? While the weather here is generally good, you should know that the autumn leaves are generally not very advanced at this time, with the possible exception of those along the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route, in Hakuba and at Kamikochi.
Are the Japanese Alps worth it?
The Japanese Alps are definitely worth visiting, though it’s important to realize that they aren’t just one destination—and you almost certainly can’t see all of them on a normal-length trip. Approaching the Japanese Alps with humility, and in recognition of their complexity as a region, is the surest way to ensure you enjoy them.
Is Mt. Fuji considered part of the Japanese Alps?
Mt. Fuji is not technically part of the Japanese Alps, though it also isn’t very far from the southern Minami Alps range. On a clear day, in fact, you can see Fujisan from many places in the Japanese Alps, among them the Komagatake Ropeway that takes you to the Senjojiki Cirque hiking trail.
The Bottom Line
I’m happy to say that I’ve completely re-written my Japanese Alps itinerary, which is now (at least hopefully) more informative, insightful and useful than ever. From cities like Matsumoto and Nagano, to trails like the Nakasendo and the Senjojiki Cirque, to Takayama and the charming Gassho farmhouse villages around it, the Japan Alps is one region with many different faces. You’ll likely need more than one visit here to discover it fully, if we’re being honest. Well, unless you hire me to plan your trip, and leverage my decade-plus of experience to see what took me years to discover in just a few days.
