My first Shikoku itinerary was effortless—by design: I was exploring Japan’s smallest island courtesy of the JTB travel company, who organized everything. I merely needed to show up.
It’s crazy to write this, but I’ve now had nearly a decade to assemble this guide to things to do in Shikoku, which spans all four of the island’s prefectures, and even several offshore idylls.
I’ll never know if how much the format of that trip influenced the depth of the love I developed for Shikoku during it. I do know that since then, I’ve gone back to the smallest of Japan’s four main islands often, traveling wider and digging deeper with each subsequent sojourn.
Shikoku Usually Works Best as a “Separate” Destination
Just as I was back in early 2017, many first-time visitors to the island are shocked by both the breadth and depth of what to do in Shikoku. In spite of being the smallest of Japan’s four main islands, it’s one of the most attraction-rich parts of the country. Among other surprising facts, it’s home to a whopping four of Japan’s 12 original castles, to say nothing of its wide array of natural appeal.
Combining this fact with Shikoku’s relatively primitive infrastructure (there are no Shinkansen bullet trains here) and the reality that each of its four prefectures is large (and, at least in a tourism sense, dense), you quickly come away with one conclusion. Namely, that Shikoku is best tackled as an à la carte trip. Or at minimum, a destination that depends a week or more of your itinerary if you’re on a longer (but more comprehensive) journey around Japan.
What to Do in Shikoku
Circle the whirlpool’s edge in Tokushima
Tokushima was the first city I visited in Shikoku, though it’s ironically the one that took me the longest to “get.” This is in part because of timing: My maiden voyage took place in January, which meant I had to settle for a rather staged performance of Awa Odori (a traditional local dance), at least until I attended the proper matsuri festival (which is in August) seven years later. Other things I live in Tokushima include the nearby indigo-dyeing town of Udatsu, and the otherworldly Naruto Whirlpools.
NOTE: If you’re headed out of town (in other words, toward Kobe/Osaka/Kyoto) when you visit the whirlpools, whether via car on long-distance bus, I highly recommend stopping on underrated Awaji Island en route.
Takamatsu: Gardens, shrines and sunsets—oh my!
Next up on my Shikoku travel guide is Takamatsu, as well as its surrounding Kagawa prefecture. Now, the city is fabulous, if only for the superlative Ritsurin Garden. But there are so many amazing destinations within day-trip distance of it, from the incredible Marugame Castle, to mystical Kotohira-gu shrine. There’s also Mitoyo, which is home to evergreen attractions like Takaya Shrine and Chichibugahama beach, and the incredible Mt. Shiude sakura spot.
TIP: The Naoshima “art island” is just a short ferry ride from Takamatsu, and makes for a worthy day trip if you can’t manage to snag a room at the exclusive Benesse House “Museum” Hotel.
Soak up Matsuyama’s hot springs heritage
Like Takamatsu, the prefecture to which Matsuyama belongs (Ehime) has a different name than it does. Unlike its eastern neighbor, I tend to spend more time in Matsuyama-proper than outside it, whether I’m enjoying the view from Matsuyama Castle, or soaking in the waters of Dogo Onsen, Japan’s oldest hot spring. Day trips do exist, of course, with my two favorites being the castle towns of Ozu and Uwajima.
BONUS: Although much of the actual cycling route goes through Hiroshima prefecture, the Shimanami Kaido nonetheless ends in Imabari, an underrated coastal city in Ehime-ken that’s famous for its towels.
Eat your way through Kochi
Rounding out the main part of my Shikoku itinerary is the city of Kochi and its surrounding prefecture of the same name. Like Matsuyama, it’s a castle town, with Kochi Castle also among the 12 original such structures in Japan. Other Kochi attractions include Hirome Market, where you can sample local delicacies like seared katsuo no tataki and the panoramic viewpoint of the Kochi Prefectural Makino Botanical Garden. Day trips from Kochi, meanwhile, include the crystalline Shimanto River, wild Cape Ashizuri and the stunning Nikobuchi Waterfall.
Slow down in the Iya Valley
Although it straddles two prefectures (Kagawa and Tokushima), I still think inland Iya Valley deserves its own entry. And not just if you can visit during its beautiful autumn months, though thats when it really signs. Indeed, attractions like Iya Onsen and traditional boat rides through Oboke Gorge are available year-round, even if the former is better in winter, while the latter makes more sense as a summer experience.
How Long Do You Need in Shikoku?
As I foreshadowed above, Shikoku is much bigger than it looks on the map. Conservatively, if you only spend two days in each of its major cities (one for urban exploration and then next for excursions out into each respective prefecture), you’d need eight days in Shikoku—we can round down to a week, for discussion’s sake. The reality, of course, is that most people hear Shikoku is “small” and think that they can hop over from the day from Honshu.
Which you can, in a bind. Some travelers, for instance, ride the JR Seto-Ohashi Line from Okayama to Takamatsu for the day, or have lunch or dinner in Imabari after completing the Shimanami Kaido during the day. The thing is, in these instances, you simply aren’t going to be able to do a comprehensive tour of the island. And so while the issue of how many days in Shikoku isn’t existential for whether or not you visit the island, it is key to whether or not you end up understanding it.
Other FAQ About Shikoku Travel
Is Shikoku worth visiting?
Shikoku is absolutely worth visiting! Though relatively small and inaccessible via Shinkansen, it rewards travelers who make the journey in spades, with mystical whirlpools, enchanting hot springs, singular culinary culture and a whopping four of Japan’s 12 original castles.
How do I get from Tokyo to Shikoku island?
Nonstop flights operate from Tokyo’s Haneda (HND) airport to all four of Shikoku’s major airports: Tokushima (TKS); Kochi (KCZ); Matsuyama (MJY); and Takamatsu (TAK). Alternatively, you can ride a Shinkansen from Tokyo to Okayama, and ride the JR Seto-Ohashi Line from there to Takamatsu Station.
When is the best time to visit Shikoku?
Shikoku is a 365-day destination, though individual places on the island are best at different times of the year. For example, autumn is the best time to visit both the Iya Valley (for colors, duh!) and the Naruto Whirlpools, which reach their tidal maximum during that part of the year. Most of Shikoku’s castles, meanwhile, are at their best amid the sakura of spring. Summer, meanwhile, is when Tokushima’s Awa Odori festival takes place.
The Bottom Line
You might be surprised by how eclectic and unique the range of things to do in Shikoku is, particularly if all you know about this island is that it’s the smallest of the four main ones that comprise Japan. Thankfully, getting to know Shikoku is pretty simple. Ideally, you’d spend around a week on the island, divided evenly between its four largest cities—Tokushima, Takamatsu, Matsuyama and Kochi—using each as a base for exploring its surrounding prefecture. Of course, even if you simply pop over from Honshu from a short trip, I doubt it will end up being your only one. Need personalized help figuring out how Shikoku fits into your larger Japan journey? Commission a custom Japan itinerary today, and let me sweat the details for you.
