I didn’t know much about the Oki Islands before I went there, during my first trip to Japan’s San’in region. Well, much that was factual or verifiable—a good friend of mine did have opinions though.
“That’s a place I never want to go,” she declared, without giving any reasons related to the islands myself. “My ex-husband is from there. Only a terrible place could’ve birthed someone so terrible.”
The good news? I validated (but ultimately ignored) her opinion, and made my own journey (which was fabulous). The better news? My Oki Islands travel guide will make it easy for you to plan your trip, whether or not you have pre-existing ideas about the archipelago.
How to Get to (and Around) the Oki Islands
There are two basic ways to reach the Oki Islands. The first is by plane (from Osaka-Itami or Izumo) to Oki Airport, located on Dogo, the largest of the archipelago’s islands. Alternatively, you can go by high-speed jetfoil (or a slower car ferry) from Yonago’s Sakaiminato port, which stops at the other three Oki Islands (Nishinoshima, Nakanoshima and Chiburijima), and is thus the best way to travel between islands.
Once you’re on a given island, renting a car is by far the most practical way to get around, as public transportation options are limited and often inconvenient. Having your own vehicle gives you the freedom to explore hidden beaches, dramatic cliffs, and charming fishing villages at your own pace.
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My Favorite Things to Do in the Oki Islands
Traipse amid ancient cedars
Once my jetfoil arrived on Dogo Island, I picked up my rental car and made a beeline for the island’s ancient Sugi, or cedar trees. My favorite of these is probably Chichi-sugi, which literally means “father cedar.” It’s an apt name, as this particular tree is over 800 years. Do note that the road that leads to these cedars is just one lane, so please drive slowly!
Pose on colorful cliffs
It’s over on Chiburijima, meanwhile, that you find the Sekiheki “red cliff”—not that this isn’t the only reason to add Chiburi Island to your Oki Islands itinerary. The island in general has one of the more colorful coastlines in the archipelago, with strikingly fluorescent water lapping at its white-sand beaches. Yes, that’s right: The Oki Islands do have a few swimmable beaches!
Admire wild horses
Nishinoshima island, meanwhile, is most famous for its wild horses. Now, you obviously can’t ride these horses; since they’re wild, you probably shouldn’t even get too close to them. But they add a certain, well, wildness to your experience, to say nothing of how beautiful they look juxtaposed against the sea. Do make sure and drive slowly so that you don’t accidentally hit one.
Greet the sea amid rugged coastlines
The bad news? Thanks to cloudy weather during part of my stay, I was unable to see the famous sunset between Rosoku-jima, aka Candle Island. The good news? The islands’ rocky topography is stunning and beautiful under any sort of skies, as the Tsutenkyo Arch pictured above illustrates. You really can’t go wrong along the coasts of any of the Okis!
Stay with locals
When I visited the Oki Islands, I stayed at Kusuburu House, an unassuming and very simple accommodation located near a rice field a few miles outside of Okinoshima town. Although my room didn’t officially include a meal, my hosts treated me to an extravagant dinner with seafood and sake. Regardless of where you stay, I wish the same hospitality for you!
How Long Do You Need in the Oki Islands?
The Oki Islands aren’t very big, but since getting to (and between) them takes some time, you can’t just come here for the day. In particular, I recommend spending at least two nights here—one night on Dogo Island, and at least one night on one of the other three islands. This will allow you to enjoy a wide cross-section of landscapes and activities before returning ot the Japanese mainland.
Of course, you can’t consider the question of how many days in the Oki Islands to spend in isolation. Are you flying in from Osaka for a long weekend, or taking a boat from Sakaiminato between forays to the Tottori Sand Dunes and to Matsue Castle? You’ll likely have more bandwidth to explore on an à la carte trip; a shorter amount of time might be more appropriate if you’re wedging the islands between other destinations in San’in.
Other FAQ About Visiting Japan’s Oki Islands
Are the Oki Islands worth visiting?
The Oki Islands are absolutely worth visiting! While the landscapes themselves aren’t life-changing on their own, the lack of tourists allows you to explore them in a sort of solitude that takes them to another level. Moreover, locals in the Okis are among some of the most hospitable people anywhere in Japan.
How do you get to the Oki Islands?
There are two main ways to reach the Oki Islands. One is to fly from Osaka or Izumo to Oki Island, located on Dogo Island. The other is to take a jetfoil or car ferry from Sakaiminato port in Yonago to any of the four islands. These ferries are also the main way for traveling between the Oki Islands.
Where are the Oki Islands?
The Oki Islands are located in the Sea of Japan just north of the westernmost third of Honshu island. They’re part of Shimane prefecture, though they are geographically at least as close to the western part of Tottori prefecture. It will take you at least half a day to reach them from western Japan, and longer if you’re coming from Tokyo or farther afield.
The Bottom Line
I hope you’ve found my Oki Islands travel guide useful. Whether you visit on the way from Yonago to Matsue, or as an à la carte trip as an expat living in Tokyo, exploring this oft-missed archipelago is easy if you have the right place in place. The islands are outposts not only of dramatic natural beauty (including ancient cedar trees and colorful cliff faces), but of friendly locals who show their guests incredible hospitality. Make sure to get your own set of wheels, however, as public transportation here leaves a lot to be desired. Need personalized help planning your Oki islands adventure? Commission a custom Japan itinerary today!
