My first visit to Japan’s San’in region, in the spring of 2019, was a turning point in my exploration of the country. In fact, I don’t think this site would’ve become what it is now—I don’t think it would still exist today—if I’d never taken that trip.
Then as now, San’in is home to iconic Japanese destinations and experiences which, simply as a result of not being on the Shinkansen line, have not become as inundated as much of the rest of the country. These are largely coastal attractions, including the mysterious Tottori Sand Dunes and the haunting Motonosumi Inari Shrine.
Others, of course, are inland—far inland, in some cases. But don’t worry: I think my round-up of things to do in Tsuwano will convince you that the journey into the mountains is worth it.
How to Get to Tsuwano
I’ll come out and start with the thing that many of you probably don’t want to hear: The easiest way, by far, to access Tsuwano (and to get around the area once you get there) is by rental car. Absent that, of course, you can go by bus from Hagi or Masuda to Tsuwano (if you’re coming from the coast) or ride a JR Yamaguchi Line train there if you happen to be coming from Yamaguchi City.
One big advantage of coming by car? You’ll spend far less time waiting around on infrequent trains or buses, giving you more time for leisure activities like using Card Player Casino to play your favorite table games. I personally find that being able to relax in the evenings allows me to be more present (and, since I’m creating content) more productive during the day, when I’m out and about exploring.
What to Do in Tsuwano
Take selfies along the koi drains
Tsuwano is one of the best-known places in Japan to see koi carp swimming through drains—this was actually what inspired me to visit in the first place. In particular, you’ll want to set your GPS for Tonomachi Street, which is just a short walk away from both the train and bus stations.
Hike up to the Tsuwano Castle Ruins
In the mood for a slightly longer walk—or hike, as it were? In this case, the next stop on your Tsuwano itinerary should be the Tsuwano Castle Ruins. Now, these are very ruined, and bear no resemblance to any of the 12 original castles of Japan. They do, however, offer a fabulous view of the town below.
(And stop en route at the Taikodani Inari Shrine)
I never say no to a good hike, but if you’re on the fence about taking one, add another stop to your journey to make it worth your while. I’m speaking in particular about Taikodani Inari Shrine, whose sequential vermillion gates might have you feeling like you’re at an alternative version of Fushimi Inari in Kyoto.
Stay to see it all lit-up
Another one of my favorite things to do in Tsuwano? Seeing the town illuminate at night. While the koi of Tonomachi Street will be asleep (and, even if they were awake, would blur on any decent photo), the townscape is absolutely gorgeous with its gentle street lighting. As I’ll explain later, this is a main reason why I think you should stay overnight.
Explore the rest of San’in
I know I talk up the San’in region a lot on this site—but there’s a good reason for that. Whether you spotlight some of the aforementioned coastal destinations, or instead focus on inland idylls such as Akiyoshido cave and the Iwami Ginzan Silver Mine, San’in will enchant you the way it has done for me. Consider yourself warned!
Should You Stay Overnight in Tsuwano?
The first time I visited Tsuwano, I stayed overnight, and I found that this was a good decision. To start with, it’s the only realistic way that you can see the town lit-up (as I described above), which is a really worthwhile endeavor. There aren’t many hotels and guest houses here, but the good news is that it’s also not a super-popular destination. Frankly, there won’t be a lot of competition for rooms.
Beyond beautiful night views, staying overnight is also the only realistic way that you can explore the breadth of the attractions in the town if you don’t rent a car. If you come for the day (and take public transportation), you’ll really need to pick and choose, and may end up leaving feeling like you’ve missed out. On the other hand, no matter how many days in Tsuwano you decide to spend, I can tell you from personal experience that you’ll want to return in the future.
Other FAQ About Visiting Tsuwano
How do I get to Tsuwano?
Tsuwano is accessible via the JR Yamaguchi Line from Yamaguchi Station and via direct bus from Masuda Station. If you are coming from points beyond these ones, particularly if you only anticipate visiting for the day, I’d highly recommend renting a car in order to maximize yourself in the town.
Is Tsuwano worth visiting?
Tsuwano has been one of my most pleasant surprises during all of my Japan travels. While I came to the town in order to see koi swimming through its drains, I found myself absolutely charmed by the slow pace of life, the stunning mountain scenery and the kindness of locals.
Where in Japan is the town of Tsuwano?
Tsuwano is located in the central part of Japan’s Yamaguchi prefecture, about halfway between Yamaguchi City and Masuda, deep in the mountains. It can take up to half a day to get here from Osaka, Kyoto or Hiroshima, and the better part of a day to get here from Tokyo or points further north and east.
The Bottom Line
I hope my round-up of things to do in Tsuwano has inspired you to head for San’in’s hills! Whether you admire the koi swimming through its drains, or take one of the many amazing hikes in and around the town, I think you’ll find it worthwhile to go off-the-beaten-path of Japan’s beaten path. While I personally recommend sleeping here for at least a few nights, you could theoretically come for the day if you’re staying nearby (such as in Yamaguchi City or Masuda) and plan to have a rental car, in order to avoid having to depend on infrequent local buses. Need personalized help putting your San’in trip together? Commission a custom Japan itinerary today!
