My very first visit to Tokyo (in 2014) took place at the peak of cherry blossom season, so I’ve never subscribed to the conventional wisdom that it’s not a good sakura destination. Quite to the contrary!
At the same time, tourism to Japan has exploded since the first time I strolled under the pink-and-white billows along Chidorigafuchi moat. Back then, you didn’t encounter any serious friction (or have to do any planning) in order to enjoy hanami alongside locals.
On my latest spring visit to Tokyo, I found the scene amid the Meguro River cherry blossoms (which I’d last visited since 2018) especially disheartening.
The Meguro River is Inherently Dystopian
For a second anyway, let’s set aside the Meguro cherry blossoms, and simply consider the “river” itself. I put this word in quotes because while there may at one point have been a natural river flowing through this part of southwestern Tokyo, the paved canal that now exists is basically a drainage ditch. There’s nothing beautiful or pleasant about it.
Indeed, while I appreciate the effort that local authorities have made to beautify it (both in terms of the cherry trees, which are really only good enough to do the job when they’re at full bloom around April 1, as well as the dozens of shops and restaurants you now find along the river), the entire set-up—trying to make people want to spend time along what is effectively a sewer—feels rather dystopian.
Why the Meguro River is Such a Bummer These Days
Stopping is “prohibited”
Now, I’m no stranger to strange Japanese rules. Returning to Meguro-gawa for the first time in seven years, I knew for sure that tripods would be banned. What I didn’t expect was signs that explicitly prohibited people from stopping even for a second to look down the canal (even if volunteer “guards” were the ones “enforcing” them).
(So is photography)
I respect people who think modern humans need to live more in the moment. At the some time, what exactly is the point of visiting the Meguro Canal in cherry blossom season if you can’t snap a single picture? Photography isn’t explicitly banned, of course, but logic tells you that if you can’t stop, you also can’t take a photo. Like so many of Japan’s measures to counter “overtourism” (to the extent that such a thing even exists), the cure here is worse them the disease.
It’s still crowded in spite of this
Foreign tourists notwithstanding, I found myself shocked by how many Japanese people seemed to be non-plussed by these insane rules. Granted, many of them were disobeying just as I was. But I’m surprised that their hasn’t been any notable outcry, even keeping in mind how compliant the Japanese tend to be.
It’s out of the way
Among mainstream spots for Tokyo cherry blossoms, the Meguro River is probably the least convenient. It’s located in far southwestern Tokyo, requiring the use of a suburban rail line from Shibuya Station, or that you ride the Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line to its western terminus at Naka-Meguro.
There are better sakura spots in Tokyo (and in Japan)
I love the Meguro River in some ways, and feel happy that I was finally able to get the shots I want there. Still, there are much better (and less restrictive) sakura spots throughout Tokyo, from Sakura-ga-oka slope in Shibuya, to Chidorigafuchi moat near the Imperial Palace, to the Sumida River in Asakusa.
Why You Should Go to the Meguro River in Spite of What I Said
Now, I’ve probably come across as a bit cynical in this post—I am a bit cynical. Both because the Meguro River (for all but one week of the year, anyway) is kind of a nasty place when you think about it, and because “authorities” here have put in place policies that effectively counteract the beauty of the cherry blossoms, which make me personally never want to visit again.
However, the Meguro cherry blossoms just are a thing of phenomenal beauty, in spite of the fact that it’s now officially forbidden to stop even for a second and admire them. My advice is that you go at least once, and that you respectfully and politely refuse to comply with the rules local volunteers are trying to impose. You have a right to capture memories of your life experiences; stopping for a few seconds to take a picture isn’t a crime.
Other FAQ About Meguro River Sakura
Where to see cherry blossoms on Meguro River?
The best section of cherry blossoms along the Meguro River is located near Naka-meguro Station (on the Tokyu Toyoko Line and Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line), rather than Meguro Station along the JR Yamanote Line. From Naka-meguro Station, head east and then, when you reach the river, walk northward along it.
Why is Meguro River famous?
The Meguro River is famous primarily for being a popular nighttime sakura spot in Tokyo. Throughout most of the rest of the year, it’s not worth visiting as a tourist, even if locals enjoy dining and shopping along the waterfront.
Which river in Japan is filled with cherry blossoms?
Several rivers in Japan have cherry blossoms along either or both sides of them. However, one of the most famous is Tokyo’s Meguro River. Throughout most of the year, this concrete-bottomed drainage ditch is forgettable, even dystopian. But the sakura make it a beautiful destination, even if local anti-tourism measures dim some of this shine.
The Bottom Line
The Meguro River is one of Tokyo’s—one of Japan’s—most picturesque cherry blossom spots. But it’s become a dystopian battlefield in Japan’s quixotic fight against “overtourism.” I can’t officially recommend against seeing the Meguro River cherry blossoms. They’re impossibly picturesque, and absolutely live up to the expectations you have of them, at least visually speaking. At the same time, you’ll need to be prepared for aggressive anti-tourism measures—and, unless you want to leave without any pictures to show for it, to politely disregard them. Further optimize your Japan cherry blossom trip by hiring me to plan it.
