Shikoku is an interesting island for many reasons, among them that two of its four prefectures share a name with their capital city. This isn’t unique within Japan as a whole, but it results in a lot of confusion for travelers focusing on the smallest of the country’s four main islands.
In both Kochi and Tokushima, a search for things to do will be bifurcated: What to do in the city-proper; and what to do in the prefecture more broadly. If you aren’t expecting this, it can seriously mess up your planning mojo.
To avoid any part in this, allow me to state from the jump that my Tokushima travel guide is designed for those with the will and time to explore Tokushima-ken as a whole, regardless of how long or how deeply Tokushima City itself fits into that.
Where to Base Yourself in Tokushima
As you might imagine, most Tokushima hotels (in other words, hotels in Tokushima prefecture) are located in Tokushima City. Of these, I tend to prefer staying near Tokushima Station, usually in a sensible “business hotel” such as the JR Hotel Clement or Daiwa Roynet Hotel. During most of the year, these are readily available and easily bookable, though this is a much taller order during Awa-odori (more on that in a moment).
The second-most common option is to base yourself in the Iya Valley (I like the Iya Onsen Hotel or Hotel Kazurabashi), though I’d probably only recommend this if you plan on having a car to get around for the duration of your trip. Hotels in other places (such as Udatsu and the Naruto Whirlpools) are so limited in number that I probably wouldn’t suggest any of them.
What to Do in Tokushima Prefecture
Explore Tokushima City
Tokushima is probably my least favorite of Shikoku’s four large cities, but that doesn’t mean it’s bad or uninteresting. You can have a wonderful day by first riding the Bizan Ropeway to the top of its namesake mountain for a panorama, and then stopping at the Awa Odori Kaikan near its base to watch a performance of the city’s dance festival of the same name.
Attend the Awa Odori Festival
Planning to visit around August 12 or so? In this case, the Awa Odori Festival itself sits at the very top of the list of things to do in Tokushima. While the costumes and movements are similar to what you’ll see at a staged performance, the electric atmosphere that overtakes the city during this time is almost unprecedented in Japan.
Spin through Naruto Whirlpools
The bad news? The Naruto Whirlpools aren’t “whirlpools” as such—you won’t get sucked down to the bottom of the ocean floor on a boat tour. They’re still pretty interesting, however, whether seen from water level, or at one of the viewing decks on the peninsula near the Onaruto Bridge.
TIP: If you have a rental car and at least half a day to spare, continue from Naruto onto Awaji Island. While technically in Hyogo prefecture, it’s a unique and authentic destination that’s totally worth your time.
Discover Japan’s indigo dyeing tradition
If you want your Tokushima itinerary to take a more artistic turn, meanwhile, consider visiting Udatsu. Located not far from Ryozen-ji, the “first” temple of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, Udatsu is home to Japan’s oldest and most important indigo dyeing tradition, which you can see if you attend a workshop.
Go deep into the Iya Valley
Want to take a truly wild day trip from Tokushima City? Go by car (or train, to Awa-Ikeda Station) and explore the Iya Valley. Most beautiful during autumn but gorgeous year-round, highlights of this area include the Kazurabashi vine bridge, Oboke Gorge and a wide variety of hot springs hotels and day spas.
How Long Do You Need in Tokushima?
Tokushima prefecture is relatively large, but not as much so as the other three in Shikoku. It’s also not nearly as rich in attractions or destinations. As a result, you don’t need nearly as long in Tokushima as you might in Kochi, Ehime or especially Kagawa. This is especially true if you have decided to rent a car during your trip, as this eliminates any delays that slow local transport might cause.
To get into specifics, the “correct” answer for how many days in Tokushima you should spend is around 2-3 for most travelers, which gives you at least a full day in Tokushima, and one each for day trips to the west (Udatsu and/or Iya Valley) and east (Naruto Whirlpools and/or Awaji Island). You can decrease this if you plan to focus primarily on Tokushima City, or increase it as the number of excursions you plan to take goes up.
Other FAQ About Visiting Tokushima
Is Tokushima worth visiting?
Both Tokushima City and its surrounding prefecture are absolutely worth visiting. Having the time or wherewithal to explore the latter, however, vastly increases the value proposition of the former, which is slightly cumbersome to reach from most of the rest of Japan.
How do I get from Tokyo to Tokushima?
The quickest and most direct way from Tokyo to Tokushima is by flying either ANA or JAL nonstop from Tokyo’s Haneda Airport (HND) to Tokushima Airport (TKS). Alternatively, you can go by Shinkansen from Tokyo to Shin-Osaka, and get a bus from there to Tokushima, or to Okayama and travel via train from there via Takamatsu to Tokushima Station.
How many days should I stay in Tokushima?
If you only plan to be in Tokushima City, then one night and a full day is probably enough (unless you’re visiting during Awa Odori, in which case you might consider staying two nights). Alternatively, you can easily 2-3 days exploring Tokushima prefecture more broadly.
The Bottom Line
I hope my Tokushima travel guide has proven helpful—and not confusing. I’ve tried to be clear, from the beginning, that its focus is not only Tokushima City (which has its own post on this site), but the broader Tokushima prefecture, from the otherworldly Naruto Whirlpools, to the indigo-dyeing town of Udatsu, to the wild Iya Valley. Even if Tokushima-shi itself isn’t especially interesting to you, I think you’ll find that a more comprehensive exploration of southeastern Shikoku is enough to make you want to go here, especially if you’re planning to visit other places on the island. Need personalized help putting your Tokushima trip together? Commission a custom Japan itinerary today!
