Picture it: Senri-chuo, a station at the northern of the Osaka Metro Midosuji Line. One of the last places in Osaka you’d expect to find throngs of tourists.
Frankly, I wondered whether I’d even be able to locate the stop for the bus to the so-called “Daruma Temple,” for which I was bound, having accidentally exited the station into a department store. But I did end up finding the bus boarding area—and, lo and behold, a huge mass of mostly Chinese tourists.
Is Katsuoji temple worth visiting? The answer, undoubtedly, is yes. But don’t for a single second fool yourself into thinking that this place is off Osaka’s beaten path.
How to Get to Katsuo-ji
Reaching Katsuoji temple is reasonably easy, though it does take some time. First, you need to board the Osaka Metro Midosuji Line and ride it northward to Senri-chuo Station. Here, exit and follow the signs to the bus stop, where a large crowd of tourists (or the seemingly out-of-place English-speaking staff member) will let you know where the bus to the temple is.
Buses to Katsuoji come once per hour on the hour.They’re also pretty crowded; I recommend arriving at least 15-20 minutes in advance to avoid having to wait for the next one. Arriving at the temple 20-30 minutes later, you simply need to walk across the street to access it. Before you do, however, I recommend consulting the posted timetable to verify imminent departures, and targeting the one that makes the most sense for your schedule.
What to Know About Katsuo-ji
It’s sprawling
Based on pictures you see on social media, you’d assume that Katsuo-ji is simple a main hall with a daruma-filled corridor leading to it. In fact, it has several unique sections, linked together by a kilometer-long path with not-insignificant elevation gain.
There are thousands of daruma
On the other, make no mistake: The daruma themselves are why I find Katsuoji worth visiting. There are thousands of them, maybe tens or even hundreds of thousands, scattered around the grounds. I could’ve spent all day photographing them, if I’m honest, though I obviously didn’t.
(And you can buy one to bring home)
You can buy daruma of various sizes to bring home—I bought two as souvenirs for friends. These include paper fortunes, which are in Japanese, though there is a QR code that leads to translations in multiple languages, in case you don’t speak Japanese well (or at all).
It’s more crowded than you’d expect
Just as I’ve tried to make clear in my Katsuoji travel guide that the temple is large, so too is it crowded. Not Kyoto-crowded, granted, but again: This place is almost an hour outside of central Osaka. You wouldn’t think there would be more than a hundred people here, but there almost certainly will be.
Autumn is not the only good time to visit
Although I did visited nearby Minoh Falls and eat momiji tempura during the autumn, I’ve never been to Katsuoji during the fall. Still, I can say that the green of summer contrasts beautiful with the red daruma; I can also imagine how much more crowded this place would be in November than it was in August.
How to Incorporate Katsuo-ji Into Your Kansai Trip
Katsuoji is technically in Osaka prefecture, though you don’t have to be spending the night in Osaka in order to go there. When I visited, for example, I actually stopped in Osaka en route from Nara to Akashi, near Kobe in Hyogo prefecture. The key is that you need to be able to spend at least four hours in Osaka—an hour each way getting from central Osaka to the temple, and 1-2 hours to spend at the temple.
Unfortunately, because of its distance from other Osaka temples, Katsuoji doesn’t necessarily mesh well with a full day of sightseeing in central Osaka. I wouldn’t suggest, for example, attempting to visit Osaka Castle, Shi-tenno-ji temple or other core attractions on the same day. Rather, you could here in the morning, before spending the afternoon in Shinsekai and the evening along Dotonbori Canal—just as an example.
Other FAQ About Visiting Katsuo-ji
Can you walk from Minoh Falls to Katsuoji temple?
Although there is a hiking trail between Minoh Falls and Katsuoji temple, this is several kilometers in length and takes many hours to complete. For the vast majority of tourists, this is impractical; for many tourists, it’s too strenuous even to be possible. You should plan on connecting these attractions using public transportation or private car.
What is the lucky temple in Osaka?
Many Osaka temples can claim to be lucky, but the most superficially lucky one is Katsuo-ji, the so-called “daruma” temple north of the city near Minoh Falls. Thousands (maybe close to a million) tiny daruma dot the grounds of the temple, giving it a one-of-a-kind character.
Is Minoh Falls worth a visit?
Minoh Falls is worth visiting, but really only in autumn as far as I’m concerned. On the other hand, nearby Katsuoji temple (which, to be clear, is “nearby” as the crow flies—it’s not walking-distance) is worth a visit all year round; its colorful daruma add character and texture 365 days per year.
The Bottom Line
Is Katsuoji temple worth visiting? Yes, but it’s also far more crowded than you’d think a place so far from a major city would be. This is especially acute in the autumn, which is why I think it’s not a bad idea to come here during other seasons. I also suggest going during the week if you can, and taking the first bus of the day from Osaka‘s Senri-chuo Station. This will minimize crowds—which, again, are going to be much larger than you’re probably expecting. Another way to minimize crowds and maximize enjoyment? Hire me to plan your trip to Japan, no matter where it ends up taking you.
