My first memory of Utsunomiya—and I’d guess that it’s a similar case for many travelers—is changing trains there. That is, from the Shinkansen bullet train to the local JR Nikko Line, or vice-versa.
I’m ashamed to admit that I never really even felt curious about what I might find outside the ticket gates. Up until very recently, in fact, the only time I ever set foot outside them was to stay in an Utsunomiya hotel…in order to head to Nikko at the crack of dawn the next morning.
Very recently, of course, I did ge to dig a little bit deeper, which is why I can now address the central question of this post—is Utsunomiya worth visiting?—with significantly more clarity.
Where to Stay in Utsunomiya
In spite of the city not having a sterling reputation (or much of a reputation at all) among foreign tourists, the variety and quality of Utsunomiya hotels is nothing to shake a stick at. I’ve stayed in several, most recently the new and stylish Candeo Hotel Utsunomiya, which is practically connected to Utsunomiya Station, making it as convenient as it is attractive and chic.
If you’ve got more time and don’t need the creature comforts of the city, you could venture to nearby Kanuma and enjoy a unique “camping” experience at Snow Peak. I put this word in quotes because the helpful staff at Snow Peak (which doubles as a retail store for the outdoor brand of the same name) can rent you all equipment and set it up for you; they even have on-site food and beverages, offering you ease and comfort.
My Favorite Things to Do in Utsunomiya
Eat gyoza
Alongside Hamamatsu in Shizuoka and Miyazaki prefecture’s namesake city, Utsunomiya is one of the top three destinations in Japan for gyoza. Whether you visit one of the city’s more popular spots for the dish, or seek out local-favorite basement dives that are literally underground, use a plate (or two) of these savory, crispy dumplings to fuel your exploration of Utsunomiya.
Visit Japan’s least-crowded bamboo forest
Another essential stop on your Utsunomiya itinerary is the Wakayama Farm—which, in spite of its name, is not located southeast of Osaka. Nor is it a farm in the sense that you might be expecting. Rather, it’s home to a massive bamboo forest with an estimated 100,000 trees, where you can enjoy an experience to the one in Kyoto’s Arashiyama district, but with virtually no crowds to contend with.
Take a pottery-focused day trip to Mashiko
When I visited Mashiko for a pottery-painting experience at Mashiko Ware Pottery Center, the guide asked me about the last time I did pottery. “30 years ago,” I laughed, in spite of being serious—I haven’t touched clay I didn’t purchase at IKEA since I was in school. The good news is that whether you try your hand at it, or simply explore the town and eats its famous soba, Mashiko is impressive to pottery amateurs, novices and experts alike.
Explore Utsunomiya’s underrated city center
There isn’t a lot of information online about what to do in Utsunomiya, and for good reason. Although there are a fair number of attractions outside of central Utsunomiya (Oya Kannon, Japan’s largest stone Buddha, comes to mind), the city center is largely indistinguishable from those of countless others in Japan. The upside of this? You can wander and observe without feeling pressures to go to a specific place.
Have a nightcap along Orion Street
Did you know that nearly 100 bars can be found within a 10-minute walk of Utsunomiya’s Orion Street shotengai? I have experienced them all personally; I’m at the age where “bar hopping” means having one drink in a single bar and “hopping” into bed before 10 PM. Still, whether you visit a classy cocktail bar or somewhere rowdier, Utsunomiya definitely known how to party.
Other Things to Do in Tochigi Prefecture
As you’ll know if you read my Tochigi travel guide, Utsunomiya may be where Tochigi-ken begins, but it’s definitely not where it ends:
- Travel to rural Nasu-Shiobara to enjoy a variety of nature activities
- If you’re here in mid-to-late April, go to Ashikaga Flower Park to see its impressive wisteria (fuji)
- Finally—and of course—visit the UNESCO World Heritage town of Nikko
Even if you don’t end up finding Utsunomiya worth visiting, there’s someplace (many places, most probably) for you to discover in Tochigi.
Other FAQ About Visiting Utsunomiya
What is Utsunomiya famous for?
Utsunomiya isn’t especially famous at all, but it is known for a few things. Firstly, for being the capital of Tochigi prefecture. Secondly, for being a major transit point en route to the very famous tourist destination of Nikko. And finally, for being one of the top three cities in Japan to eat gyoza dumplings.
What prefecture is Utsunomiya, Japan in?
Utsunomiya is in Tochigi, a largely rural prefecture about an hour from Tokyo by Shinkansen bullet train. However, in spite of being Tochigi’s capital and largest city, Utsunomiya is not really anything approaching a “tourist destination”—far from it.
Why is Utsunomiya famous for gyoza?
The official story goes that Japanese soldiers who were stationed in Manchuria during World War II brought back recipes of fried Chinese pot stickers to Japan, including a disproportionate number of them to Utsunomiya. The city is now one of Japan’s premier gyoza cities, alongside Hamamatsu and Miyazaki.
The Bottom Line
Is Utsunomiya worth visiting? Well, what I can say is that if you feel curious about what lies beyond the ticket gates of Utsunomiya Station, you should indulge your curiosity as immediately as you can. Certainly, I don’t suggest waiting over a decade like I did. At the same time, you shouldn’t expect Utsunomiya to knock your socks off, even if the gyoza you’ll find here are some of the best that exist anywhere in Japan. Need help putting together your Tochigi adventure? Whether your heart is set only on Nikko or you’re curious to explore on a much deeper level, I hope you’ll hire me to plan your trip.
