Have you ever gone somewhere that you loved, but feel you didn’t do justice when you visited the first time? For me, this was the city of Matsue.
On my maiden voyage through Japan’s San’in region, I did spend two nights in Matsue. Unfortunately, I occupied most of my time there taking day trips and excursions, with very little time in the city center. I didn’t even go up in Matsue Castle, though I did recently rectify this on my latest trip.
So, is Matsue worth visiting? There’s no question in my mind about this. The key is having a real good first visit, so you don’t spend six years living in regret.
Where to Stay in Matsue
When it comes to Matsue hotels, you face a choice. Do you stay near Matsue Station, which is inconvenient to the castle but convenient for day trips and excursions? Or do you stay over the Ohashi River in the old town, which feels more homey because requires more of a slog to the station when you arrive, and when you want to get out of town?
If you’re in the former camp as I typically have been, business hotels such as Dormy Inn Express Matsue and Green Rich Hotel Matsue Station Across are probably your best bet. Better properties, not surprisingly, are located closer to the castle. These include the higher-end hot springs hotel Ohashikan, as well as the more spartan ryokan Yonemuraya.
My Favorite Things to Do in Matsue
Admire Matsue Castle from the outside
As I copped to earlier in this post, I did not enter Matsue Castle during my first trip to the city. I did, however, look lovingly on it from the various moats around it, which elevated it high on my list of Japanese castles, in spite of not having gone inside. It really is just stunning, both the castle and the pine (matsu) forest that seems to engulf it.
(And the inside)
Of course, I couldn’t have written a proper Matsue itinerary if I had never eventually gone inside the castle. As is the case in most castles in Japan, the base of Matsue-jo is home to a history museum, while the Tenshu offers an observation deck with pristine views in all directions. Including of Shiomi Nawate Street, a Samurai district just outside the castle’s historic walls.
Zen out at Kamosu Shrine
If I’m honest, I’m not sure how I ever decided upon visiting Kamosu Shrine. It’s beautiful, that’s true; it’s also even older than Matsue Castle itself, having opened in 1583. However, it is pretty far from Matsue’s city center, just to give you a warning. I’d definitely recommend visiting, however, if only because of how few fellow tourists you’ll encounter.
Watch the sunset into Lake Shinji
Another place in my Matsue travel blog with shockingly few tourists? Lake Shinji, and in particular the sunset spot on the lake’s westward-facing shore. It’s a tedious walk from the nearest train station, I’ll admit that. But getting to watch the sun sink behind an island covered in Matsue’s namesake pine trees? Well, I don’t do emoji in my content, but if I did I’d use the chef’s kiss.
Explore the rest of San’in
San’in begins, for many travelers in Matsue—but it doesn’t end there. The most obviously next stop is probably nearby Izumo, which is home to the second-most important Shinto shrine in all of Japan. You could instead head east, whether to Yasugi (and its famous Adachi Museum of Art) or even all the way to Yonago, the city at the foot of Mt. Daisen.
How to Get to Matsue
Matsue isn’t on any Shinkansen line, but it’s not too far off the beaten path. If you’re already in Western Japan, there are two basic ways to get there. The most direct is to ride a bullet train to Okayama, then connect to an Izumo-bound Yakumo Limited Express train there. Alternatively, direct bus service is available to and from Hiroshima.
If you’re originating in eastern Japan (say, you want to travel from Tokyo to Matsue), different logic may be wiser. Specifically, I’d probably recommend flying, although you should note that Matsue doesn’t have an airport. Rather, you’d need to fly to either Yonago (YGJ) or Izumo (IZO) airports, then taking a limousine bus from there to Matsue Station.
Other FAQ About Visiting Matsue
Is Matsue worth it?
Matsue is definitely worth the relative trouble it takes to get there. Whether you visit Matsue Castle and the Samurai districts around it, or use Matsue as a base for day trips to cities like Izumo, Yonago or even Tottori, it’s not exaggeration to say that Japan’s underrated San’in region begins in Matsue.
How long to spend in Matsue?
In my experience, Matsue is a city that most travelers can cover in 2-3 nights. This includes a full day enjoying city-center attractions like Matsue Castle, day trips to Izumo and/or Yonago and the ability to watch sunset into Lake Shinji on at least one night.
What is Matsue famous for?
Matsue is famous primarily for being home to Matsue Castle. Built in 1594, it is one of just 12 castles in Japan whose tenshu (keep) are original, and were not destroyed during the Meiji Restoration. It’s surrounded by a picturesque moat, as well as a veritable forest of pine trees (matsu) that appears to be engulfing it.
The Bottom Line
Is Matsue worth visiting? Whether you want to visit one of most beautiful exemplars of Japan’s 12 remaining original castles, or simply have a base for exploring the country’s underrated San’in region, Matsue is worth the trek. And it is a trek—it’s located three hours by Yakumo Limited Express train from the nearest Shinkansen stop (Okayama), and over an hour from two nearby airports (Izumo and Yonago). Need personalized help incorporating Matsue into your trip? Commission a custom Japan itinerary, and let me integrate it seamlessly, no matter why you end up wanting to visit.
