My brother-in-law calls them “hallway hikers.” The sorts of people—usually white; usually affluent—who wear outdoor clothing and footwear all the time, even in urban or quasi-urban settings. Certainly, the middle-aged couple waiting for the Benesse House shuttle bus on Naoshima island fit this bill.
In spite of this, the masked attendant let them onto the vehicle without a second look, neither at the woman’s hideous mustard-colored beanie, nor at the man’s scratched Y2K-era Oakleys.
In my case, to be sure, he applied maximum scrutiny. “I’m sorry,” he murmured muffledly through the filthy piece of cloth covering his mouth. “But this bus is only for hotel guests.”
I felt surprised (I was the only one in the vicinity dressed even close to to be visiting Japan’s “art island”) but also disappointed. Unlike the others for whom money was clearly no object (in spite of, or maybe because of, their frumpy taste), finally being able to afford to spend a night here was a moment of triumph.
Is Naoshima worth visiting? Yes, but—in good ways and not-so-good ones—it’s probably not what you’re expecting.
The Truth About Benesse House
I’d been curious about the Naoshima museum hotel almost as long as I’ve been coming to Japan, even if back then (in 2014) Japan’s tourism boom hadn’t really begun in earnest. Until very recently, however, I hadn’t even considered staying there. With nightly rates of over 500 USD, even at current exchange rates, it’s among the most expensive places I’ve ever stayed (on my own dime, anyway). I’ve had a good couple of years, however.
The hotel was very nice; my room offered a wonderful view of the Seto Inland Sea. Though not included, the meals ranged from good to spectacular, and were more or less worth what I paid for them. Being able to go to a world-class museum in my pajamas was priceless. At the same time, the cold service I received upon waiting for the shuttle did recur more than once, which left a bad taste in my mouth that never really went away.
5 Ways to Enjoy Naoshima More
Arrive skeptical (so you can leave grateful)
I’ve felt jaded about Naoshima since long before I visited—and not just because I was bitter that I couldn’t afford to stay at Benesse House. It seemed like it would be impossible pretentious, and could never live up to the hype. It’s definitely pretentious, I can’t lie. Yet in spite of not being much of an art person, I ended up being impressed by what it had to offer, not to mention how much work it took for humans to transfer it into what it is.
Don’t rent a bike
To the casual observer, bicycle would be the perfect way to execute a Naoshima itinerary, given the island’s relatively small size. However, biking on Naoshima isn’t especially practical, given that bikes are prohibited on the property of Benesse, which owns all the island’s best museums. Instead, I recommend using the shuttle bus to travel long distances, and walking between places that are close to one another.
(Mindfully) reserve museum tickets in advance
Not all museums on Naoshima require reservations, but some of its best ones do. The good news is that many of these (Benesse House Museum, Lee Ufan Museum) don’t require you to commit in advance to a specific time. In spite of this, museums almost always sell out, so I’d highly recommend that you book your tickets at least a few days (and, ideally, a few weeks) in advance.
Don’t skip the Chichu Museum
Mine isn’t the only Naoshima travel blog to heap praise upon the Chichu Art Museum. However, I initially felt annoyed by this place, which is the only major Naoshima museum that requires you to make timed reservations (I timed mine wrong). Still, even as a person who’s not a passionate art lover, walking into the room with Monet’s “Lilies” literally took my breath away, to say nothing of how superlative the entire rest of the experience was.
Stay overnight, even if you can’t afford a museum hotel
Speaking of advance booking, you need to book Benesse House six months in advance (to the day, or really the minute) if you want any chance of staying there, price notwithstanding. Can’t be bothered to do this, or just can’t afford it? There’s still value to staying overnight, as doing so simply gives you more time at explore. Non-Benesse Naoshima accommodation options include MY LODGE and Sparky’s House.
How Many Days Do You Need in Naoshima?
If you stay at Benesse House and are not independently wealthy, I doubt you will be able to afford more than a night or two in Naoshima. You’re looking at spending a minimum of 500-1000 USD, not including the cost of museum tickets and other attractions. At the same time, Naoshima is bigger than it looks, particularly if you decide to explore on foot like I did. You could definitely spend longer than three days here exploring.
Embedded in the question of how many days in Naoshima you spend is the question of whether you will visit nearby Teshima, and also where you’ll be before and after you come here. For this reason, I think it’s worth it to consider hiring me to plan your trip. No matter how long you stay in Naoshima (if you stay the night at all), working with me ensures your trip will be perfectly paced and arranged.
Other FAQ About Visiting Naoshima Island
How do I travel to Naoshima?
Naoshima is accessible by direct ferry from the city of Takamatsu on Shikoku island, and from the port of Uno near Okayama city on the main island of Honshu. If you stay in either of these cities, you can reach Naoshima in just over an hour door-to-door. Coming from Tokyo or Osaka, however, usually entails a half- or even a full-day journey.
Do I need to pre-book Naoshima island?
You don’t need to pre-book your ferry to Naoshima—in fact, they can’t be reserved. However, certain museums required advance (and, in some cases, timed reservations); you obviously need to book accommodation in advance if you plan to stay overnight.
How do you get around Naoshima?
Unless you drive your own car over on a car ferry, there are three basic ways to explore Naoshima: By shuttle bus; by bike; or on foot. If the weather is good, I recommend riding a shuttle bus to the main museum area, and then exploring on foot. Bike is a good option in theory, but since bikes are forbidden from entertain Benesse property, they aren’t actually as practical as they seem on the surface.
The Bottom Line
Is Naoshima worth visiting? Though I resisted coming here for a long time—for reason that, in many ways, my visit affirmed to be true—I found myself delighted more than disappointed, often in ways that were humbling and overwhelming. While it’s true that Naoshima is filled with pretentious rich people (and, objectively speaking, is among the least traditionally beautiful islands in the Seto Inland Sea), the variety of art and the way it’s curated are nothing short of spectacular, to say nothing of what a once-in-a-lifetime experience the Benesse House Hotel is—well, at least for “normal” people. I hope you’ll consider hiring me to plan your Japan itinerary, whether or not you decide to add Naoshima to it.
