Japan has many “Fujis,” even if none are as iconic as the original. From Hoki-huji (i.e. Mt. Daisen in Tottori prefecture), to Mt. Yotei, which rises above the Niseko Ski Resort, to Aomori’s Mt. Iwaki, I’ve often had to do a double take when looking at certain Japanese mountains.
In a sense, then, it’s strange that Mt. Rishiri (which rises above and comprises most of the offshore island of the same name) captivates me so much, probably the most of any Japanese mountain besides Fujisan itself. It isn’t really shaped like Mt. Fuji, even if it is just as ubiquitous a sight up in far northern Hokkaido as Fuji is in Tokaido.
Of course, this won’t be a post comparing Rishirifuji to the real one, but rather than outlines things to do in Rishiri more generally. Regardless, I hope you’ll give me a few minutes of your time.
Where to Stay in Rishiri (and How to Get Around)
The bad news? The selection of Rishiri hotels leaves something to be desired, and prices tend to be high. For example, I stayed at Island Inn Rishiri—which, in spite of being just a step above a normal Japanese business hotel (and still smelling like decades’ worst of smoke) was more expensive than almost any other comparable hotel I’ve stayed in on Japan’s main islands in recent years.
I wish I could tell you that other properties—such as Shimanoyado Kamuirishiri and Rishiri Fuji Kanko Hotel—where different. They aren’t sadly. With this being said, the other thing you should keep in mind is that renting a car in Rishiri (which is a necessity) is expensive, and complicated. It isn’t possible to do online; you’ll have to contact the rental company of your choice by phone.
What to Do on Rishiri Island
Start (and end) at Yuhigaoka Observation Deck
When I picked up my car at Oshidomari Port, I wasn’t sure whether I would first head clockwise or counterclockwise. My advice? Go counter-clockwise. This allows your first stop to be Yuhigaoka Observation Deck, which offers stunning views of Rebun looming in the distance at all hours of the day (i.e. come back for sunset).
Eat an uni don at Cape Senhoshi
I’ll be honest: I’ve never been a huge fan of sea urchin (uni). With this being said, I found myself so charmed by the fishmonger I visited at Cape Senhoshi (which was the actual entry on my Rishiri itinerary) that I couldn’t resist the mini don he was selling for just ¥5,000, less that half the price I saw elsewhere.
(And enjoy the view from there)
The bad news? When I was having my makeshift lunch, a thick blanket of clouds obscured the tip of Mt. Rishiri, preventing me from getting the shot I wanted. The good news? When I returned there later in the afternoon, I was able to capture the “money shot” that I had only dreamed about up until that point.
Take a hike at Himenuma pond
There are a few ponds (numa in Japanese) on the list of what to do in Rishiri, which in text form didn’t thrill me. However, Himenuma (whose name reflect a princess, which one I don’t know) was certainly impressive, if only because of all the wildlife I was able to spot and photograph amid its deep emerald green.
Don’t feel pressured to climb the mountain
I’ve climbed the actual Mt. Fuji, as well as a couple of the others, which might make you think that I was hellbent on scaling Rishirifuji. Yet while I wouldn’t mind going back in the future and climbing or hiking for a couple days, this is not at all necessary for enjoying your time on Rishiri.
How Long Should You Stay in Rishiri?
Because of the cost of hotels and both the high cost and low availability of rental cars, most travelers are not able to stay longer than a night or two on Rishiri. The good news is that this is probably sufficient, certainly if you don’t plan to climb the mountain. You can circumnavigate Rishiri several times within the span of 24-48 hours; you will be able to see everywhere you want during that time.
The other thing to keep in kind is that if climbing is part of the equation of how many days in Rishiri you need, you might be taking some kind of organized trip. You don’t “need” a guide to hike or climb here, of course—the trails are open to the general public—but many travelers (Japanese ones, especially) choose to hire a guide as a layer of insurance as they ascend the mountain.
Other FAQ About Visiting Rishiri
Is Rishiri worth visiting?
Rishiri is definitely worth visiting, even if you don’t climb Mt. Rishiri. My personal favorite place on the island is the small uni don shop on Cape Senhoshi on the southern coast, but you are sure to uncover dozens of your own treasures as you circumnavigate the island.
How do I go to Rishiri island?
There are two ways to reach Rishiri island: By ferry from Rebun or Wakkanai; or by ferry from Sapporo. Because flights are sometimes subject to cancellation, I recommend having a ferry-based plan as a backup. For example, if your goal is to fly from Rishiri back to Sapporo, I suggest having a ferry to Wakkanai, and a flight from there to Sapporo reserved just in case the RIS-CTS flight gets canceled.
Is Mount Rishiri active?
The good news? In spite of resembling Mt. Fuji (which is very much activate) from some angles, Mt. Rishiri is dormant. When you combine this fact with the lack of bears and snakes on the island, it means that Rishiri offers some of the safest hiking anywhere in Japan.
The Bottom Line
Having a list of things to do in Rishiri is helpful, even if it’s not as necessary as one might be elsewhere in Japan. Rishiri is a small island, and since its main road circumnavigates its coastline, getting around is pretty simple. At the same time, it’s good to have guide posts along the way, and to have a general idea of how to sequence your sightseeing. This is especially the case if photography is important to you, and you want to be mindful of lighting as you explore. Need personalized help putting your northern Hokkaido adventure together? Commission a custom Japan itinerary—and let me sweat the details!
