The morning after a Takagi (firelit) Noh performance on a recent trip to Japan, my shukubo hosts confessed over breakfast that they had the same frustrations I did about the art form. “Japanese people don’t understand it, either,” they said, referring to both the language used and the broader concept.
Of course, I’ve used the word “frustration” somewhat flippantly, perhaps too much so. I mean, it’s like Noh-gaku is disappointing, even if it is confusing, even overwhelming at times.
Indeed, I’m not even here to make any kind of judgement about it. Rather, I want to help you watch Noh in Japan, so that you can decide for yourself.
What is Noh? And Why Does It Exist?
The history of Noh theater, like Noh (能) itself, is complicated. It’s said to have originated in about the 14th century, as a creation of the actor Kan’ami and his son Zeami, and as a combination of pre-existing art forms. Featuring an ensemble of actors (including at least one, and sometimes many, covering their faces with masks), Noh plays weave together Japanese history with literature and mythology, according to certain stylistic principles.
Linguistically, as I referenced in the introduction to this piece, Noh is performed using a very particular sort of Japanese, which can be hard to understand (if not in terms of the words and phrases themselves ,then in terms of their meanings), even among native Japanese speakers. By contrast, even if you don’t speak a word of Nihon-go, watching Noh-gaku can be an emotional, even transcendental experience.
Where to Watch Noh in Japan
Sado Island, Niigata
My favorite place to see Noh, by far, is on Sado Island in Niigata prefecture. Whether you see it at Shiizaki Suwa Shrine like I did, and even if it isn’t Takagi (firelit) Noh, it’s an unforgettable experience. Do make sure and consult the Sado Island Noh schedule, however, as these performances don’t take place especially often.
National Noh Theater, Tokyo
Want to see a Noh performance in Tokyo instead, whether out of preference or necessity? The good news is that the National Noh Theater is here (in Sendagaya, to be specific), which means performances are much more regular, even if they aren’t as special. See the schedule and book tickets online here.
Elsewhere in Tokyo
Excepting more random performances at temples in shrines, there are two other places to reliably watch Noh in Tokyo. First, at Kanze Noh Theater within the Ginza Six Shopping Complex; and second, at the Cerulean Tower Noh Theater, which is located in Shibuya.
Kyoto
Not surprisingly, seeing a Noh performance in Kyoto isn’t extremely difficult; the city is Japan’s former capital, after all. As is the case in Tokyo, there are a few options here. These include the Kyoto Kanze Noh Theater, as well as Gion Corner, a multi-purpose performing arts center.
Online
While some Noh theaters may occasionally live stream performances, the reality is that most Noh theater that’s online is pre-recorded. I recommend watching it on the website of an official organization like the International Noh Institute, which not only guarantees good quality and complete shows, but also great translations.
Why Sado’s Noh Shows Are Worth the Effort and Expense
As I’ve explained above, multiple options for seeing Noh in Japan exist. For me, however, the most special place to see Noh is Sado Island in Niigata prefecture. As I explained above, outdoor Noh performances take place several times per year here, some of which are Takagi (firelit) Noh. Sado-ga-shima is hard to reach, however, so they tend not to be very crowded.
There’s also the fact, again, that Noh in Sado Island doesn’t take place often, happening only a few times a year, and almost exclusively during the summer. While you could get lucky and happen to be on Sado Island while Noh is taking place, you are more probably going to have to plan your trip around it. (Or, if you’re very savvy, hire me to plan your trip around it!).
Other FAQ About Where to Watch Noh in Japan
Where can I watch the Noh theater?
You can watch Noh theater in a variety of locations around Japan. While the most special experience is to enjoy Takagi (firelit) Noh on Sado Island in Niigata prefecture, it’s easier to enjoy in Kyoto and Tokyo, where you’ll find Japan’s National Noh Theater.
Is Noh theater still performed?
Noh is still performed, though these days it’s much more of a novelty, rather than being a central cultural expression. You’ll have to be deliberate about when and where you see it; otherwise, you may arrive in Japan and find that no opportunity to see it exists.
Should I see Kabuki or Noh?
In my opinion, if you are not fluent in Japanese and aren’t extremely interested in Japanese theater, you can think of Kabuki and Noh as being interchangeable. They obviously aren’t, but to the uninitiated, they will probably have the same impact at the end of the day.
The Bottom Line
Want to watch Noh in Japan? The good news is that you have plenty of options. While not everyone has the time or stamina to reach Niigata’s Sado Island and watch authentic Takagi Noh, several theaters in both Tokyo and Kyoto offer their own Noh performances. Which is not to say you even need to be in Japan to see Noh-gaku: You can watch it online, both in pre-recorded form, and even live depending on the circumstance. Need personalized help fitting a Noh (or, if you prefer, Kabuki) performance into your next Japan trip? Consider hiring me to plan it for you!
