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Comparing Japan’s Most Remote Islands

If I’m honest, I can’t remember when I heard about Rishiri and Rebun for the first time. I knew it was when a Japanese acquaintance of mine went there a few years ago, but I don’t recall anything beyond that.

It’s not important, of course. His trip planted the seed and, although it took a long time to germinate, I did finally make it to both of these islands.

Indeed, although it doesn’t make much sense to visit one and not the other, I do think there’s value in comparing Rishiri vs Rebun. I hope you’ll continue reading—and that, once you do finally take your own trip, you’ll think of this post as you travel!

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Why I Finally Visited Rishiri and Rebun

I didn’t have Rishiri or Rebun on my mind, at least not immediately, when I first started planning the trip that ultimately saw me visit them. You see, I had finally managed to book a seat in JAL’s new first class using miles and points. The catch? In order to unlock availability, I had to “marry” a domestic Sapporo-Tokyo segment onto my main Tokyo-Dallas flight. In other words, I needed to start my trip in Hokkaido.

Although I couldn’t simply flown from Thailand (where I knew I would start my trip) to Sapporo and connected without leaving the airport, this felt like a waste. Similarly, I’ve also explored the mainland of Hokkaido pretty extensively during the summer months. It took a bit of thinking, but eventually a light bulb went off: This would be my best opportunity yet to explore Rebun and Rishiri.

 
 
Rebun

Ways to Compare Rishiri with Rebun

Getting there and around

Both of these islands are remote, and are accessible only via ferry (from Wakkanai and from one another) or by plane from Sapporo-New Chitose (CTS) airport. Likewise, while there are a limited number of bus tours that can help you get around, the best option by far is to rent your own car. Note, however, that this is both more expensive and more complicated (you have to call) than doing so on the mainland.

Things to do

Likewise, there’s similarity on this front: Most of the sights that definite both Rishiri and Rebun are scenic in nature, and are discoverable at least as much by driving and stopping where you feel compelled as they are by working off of a list. Thankfully, the small size of each island means that once you get a lay of the land, this is reasonably easy to do.

Food, drink and hospitality

Would you believe that I didn’t have a single property meal in Rebun, apart from my hotel’s breakfast? I attempted to have lunch, but waited in line for over an hour to be turned away one minute after the place closed. The good news? The uni don was more abundant, fresher and cheaper on Rishiri. The not-as-good news? Both islands leave a lot to be desired when it comes to accommodation.

Tourism infrastructure

I mentioned earlier that whether you’re on Rebun or Rishiri, feeling your way around is a more productive way of sightseeing than ticking items off a list. The slight complication, for Rebun, is that its roads only go about three quarters of the way around the island, meaning you’ll need to be slightly more strategic. This is also key because while there are customer-facing businesses all over Rishiri, Rebun feels deserted outside its one “big” town.

Foreigner-friendliness

I speak Japanese (albeit poorly), so I was not as vulnerable to the lack of English-language ability on these islands as some other tourists would be. In spite of this (and in spite of the fact that a few people I spoke with seemed to assume that I couldn’t speak Japanese), I would say that neither island gave me major xenophobic vibes. Well, except for the aforementioned seafood bowl restaurant—their rejection of me seemed a little too convenient.

 
 
Rishiri

Are Rishiri and Rebun Worth Visiting?

Both Rishiri and Rebun punch far above their weight as destinations, especially once you disconnect from the traditional ways you might explore somewhere in Japan, and settle into island life. This can seem difficult on a short trip—you’re unlikely to spend more than a night or two in either place—but I promise you it’s easy. The moment you look at Google Maps for the last time is when your trip truly begins.

To be sure, I remember how after making one full trip around Rebun’s major attractions, I simply followed my eye—it was also about photographing the island as it contrasted to Rishiri, which loomed in the distance. Likewise, the simple task of circumnavigating Rishiri’s ring road gave me the freedom to stop off whenever I wanted, instead of ticking items off a list. Simply put, these islands will exceed whatever expectations you have of them.

Other FAQ About Rebun and Rishiri

Is Rishiri or Rebun better for tourists?

Rishiri has two major advantages over Rebun: It’s more developed with a wider range of hotels and restaurants; and its main road goes all the way around the island, allowing you to circumnavigate in both directions. On the other hand, Rebun has the advantage of Rishiri looming over it from multiple angles, which makes it a more dramatic photographic subject.

Why are rental cars so expensive in Rishiri and Rebun?

Rental cars are expensive in both Rishiri and Rebun because of a lack of supply. There are only a few rental outlets on each island, and maybe a couple of dozen vehicles between all of them. Plus, the cost of transportation vehicles to the islands and maintaining them is priced into the daily rental cost, which can easily exceed ¥20,000 for a small car.

Are there flights to Rishiri and Rebun?

Both Rishiri and Rebun have airports, which have daily flights to Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport. With this being said, it’s not uncommon for these flights to be canceled due to weather conditions, especially during the winter months. As a result, I recommend putting a backup plan in place—namely, a ferry back to Wakkanai, and a flight from there to Sapporo or Tokyo.

The Bottom Line

Comparing Rishiri vs Rebun isn’t necessary—you will probably go to both islands if you go to one—but it can be helpful. In some sense, I’d say that Rishiri is the more important and impressive of the two. Even when on Rebun, it looms large in the distance; there’s never really a moment when it isn’t at least in your mind. Likewise, I frankly prefer certain things about Rishiri, such as its much higher level of development, and the fact that you can drive the entire way around the island. Regardless, I do hope you’ll give each island the opportunity to impress you—and that you’ll hire me to plan your trip, to make sure it hits all the right notes.

 

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