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Nagasaki Starts Here

When the topic of Nagasaki comes up, “crying” is always at the top of the list, even if it isn’t explicitly on my Nagasaki travel guide. As you’ll have learned if you read the blog post from my 2019 trip to the city, it was the confluence of Nagasaki’s great tragedy with a not-so-great one of my own that caused the waterworks to turn on the last time I was there.

This is not to say, of course, that Nagasaki attractions are limited to or even center around the spot where the A-bomb detonated. In fact, a trip to Nagasaki is a largely triumphant affair, whether you traipse amid historical architecture in Dejima or around Oura Cathedral, or watch the city’s millions of lights sparkle while taking in the award-winning night view from Mt. Inasa.

(And especially if you explore the rest of Nagasaki prefecture, which is far more expansive and interesting than the amazing city center.)

A Nagasaki trip is sure to stir your emotions in more ways than one—I can’t control how that goes down. What I will do below is provide you the best advice and information to ensure your travels are productive and positive, even if you end up crying.

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Where to Stay in Nagasaki

Before I get to the specifics of what to do in Nagasaki (besides weep), I wanted to discuss the topic of accommodation in the city. Unlike some cities in Japan, Nagasaki doesn’t have one clear center, which makes it difficult to pinpoint a specific areas that’s best to use as a base. In general, I would recommend staying near a stop along one of Nagasaki’s tram lines, though beyond that I am relatively agnostic.

A Nagasaki hotel to which I find myself returning frequently is Hotel Forza, which is located just steps from popular Nagasaki sights such as Shichin-machi Chinatown, Dejima and the Spectacles Bridge. If you’re looking for something higher-end, I can recommend the four-star Setre Glover’s House, while budget Nagasaki travelers can save by sharing accommodation at Casa Noda.

My Favorite Things to Do in Nagasaki

Go Dutch in Dejima (and beyond)

 

I usually like to start my exploration of Nagasaki in the far southern part of the city center, specifically at Oura Cathedral and Glover Garden, the latter of which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. From here, you can either walk or ride the tram back northward to Dejima. High on my list of things to do in Nagasaki, this island was once one of the only places in Nagasaki (and, if I remember correctly, all of Japan) where foreigners were allowed. It’s not an exaggeration to say that this feels like a lost Dutch down. A large majority of the tourists here on any given day are actually Dutch, which makes this feeling even stronger.

Discover one of Japan’s best Chinatowns

 

It’s just a short walk from Dejima to Nagasaki Chinatown, aka Shichin-machi. Whether you sit down for a bowl of Chanpon noodle soup at any of the dozen or so restaurants here that sling it, or ride to the end of the tram line to visit Sofuku-ji temple (which actually appears a bit more Vietnamese than Chinese to my eyes), this is an area not to be missed. I especially love coming here at night, when it’s all lit up! It’s also near here where you can sample unique Yuzu ramen at Menya Always Nagasaki.

Pay your respects at Ground Zero

 

The term “Nagasaki Ground Zero” is somewhat inaccurate, since sights dedicated to the tragedy that took place here are spread out over a relatively large area. However, whether you simply visit the detonation site, or spend time in Nagasaki Peace Park or at the one-legged Sanno Shrine, it is absolutely necessary to come here and meditate.

TIP: Though not directly related to the atomic bombing of Nagasaki, the world-famous “night view” from Mt. Inasa nonetheless showcases the extent to which the city has transcended the great tragedy that befell it.

Make a day trip to Shimabara and Mt. Unzen

 

Nagasaki’s city center is fabulous, but many of the best things to do in Nagasaki you’ll find are outside of it. In terms of day trips from Nagasaki, one of my favorites is actually two: The town of Shimabara (known as Japan’s unofficial koi hub, for the colorful carp that swim in its drains) and Mt. Unzen, which rises above it and once, buried Shimabara in ash during an eruption.

Spend at least a few day in Nagasaki’s offshore islands

 
 
 

If you’re spending a long time in Japan or simply really want to dig into Nagasaki, I’d highly recommending visiting at least one of the three main islands offshore: Ikishima, Tsushima and the Goto archipelago. Although well-known for their undisturbed nature among Kyushuans (and, among very history-savvy foreigners, for the importance of their Catholic churches), these islands remain among the most off-the-beaten-path destinations in all of Japan, whether you incorporate them into your Nagasaki itinerary or see them à la carte.

How Long Should Your Nagasaki Trip Last?

When it comes to how many days in Nagasaki you should spend, that depends on a few factors. Most importantly, as far as I’m concerned, is how long the rest of your Kyushu trip will last. If you spend two weeks in Kyushu like I recently did, 1-2 days in Nagasaki might be all you can afford to devote. On the other hand, 2-3 days or even longer is perfectly doable if you’re visiting Nagasaki on a standalone basis, or even a slightly less integral one.

Of course, if you have a longer amount of time and aren’t solely fixated on visiting Nagasaki sights, you could definitely find an even longer visit to the city enjoyable. As I’ve described in many other posts, I love renting an Airbnb apartment, and “living” in a city on a longer stay, as opposed to simply staying in a hotel and structuring my visit as a traditional tourist might. Nagasaki is a great city for this!

Nagasaki vs. Hiroshima

Is Nagasaki worth visiting? My answer to this question is very obviously yes. However, many people write in asking me whether Nagasaki or Hiroshima is more worth visiting. (So many that I’ve actually written an entire post discussing this topic.) In general, I’d say that while I find it intellectually lazy to compare these two cities based solely on what happened in both of them, they’re also different enough in their general appeal that this is futile.

For example, while most of the places to visit in Nagasaki I’ve described sit within the city center, my favorite things to do in Hiroshima are day trips. Namely, Miyajima island’s Itsukushima Shrine, which is far more impressive than anything you find in Hiroshima-proper. On the other hand, Hiroshima and Nagasaki share one important thing in common: They are so much more than the tragedy for which both of them area known.

Other FAQ About Visiting Nagasaki

Is Nagasaki worth visiting?

Nagasaki is a place that not many foreign tourists visit, on account of how relatively difficult it is to reach, and because most know nothing more about it than the tragedy that occurred here almost a century ago. But even if you disregard the relatively obscurity of the city (and prefecture), Nagasaki is absolutely worth visiting, whether you discover Dutch and Chinese fusion cultures in the the city center, make a day trip to a nearby volcano (and the town it once buried, during an eruption) or spend time on any of the many islands just offshore.

Is Nagasaki good for tourists?

Nagasaki is a fabulous city for tourists, if only because of how few expectations most have going in. Did you know, for example, that Nagasaki was once the only port in Japan open to outsides, and that the part of the city where this occurred is still open as a living museum? Nagasaki is also a paradise for foodies, who can indulge in its unique Chinese-Japanese fusion cuisine.

What is Nagasaki best known for?

For better or for worse, Nagasaki remains best known for the atomic bombing that took place here in 1945. Increasingly, however, it’s gaining notoriety as a tourism hub, whether because of the unique blend of Japanese, Chinese and Dutch heritage that exists within its city center, or as a result of exhilarating day trips and excursions, from volcanic Mt. Unzen, to the off-the-beaten-path island archipelagoes that sit in the seas to the north and west.

The Bottom Line

Crying might not be baked into your Nagasaki travel guide—I hope it isn’t. On the other hand, I do hope you feel something as you explore this beautiful harbor city, be it a spiritual morning at the historical Oura Cathedral, a delicious lunch in Chinatown or sunset from magnificent Mt. Inasa. Nagasaki is also a great base for day trips in Kyushu, whether you head southward to Shimabara and Mt. Unzen, or westward into the prefecture’s superlative offshore islands. Want to make sure Nagasaki slots perfectly into your next Kyushu trip? Commission a custom Japan itinerary!

 

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