Like most foreign travelers to Japan, I first discovered Tochigi on a day trip from Tokyo to Nikko. At the time, I had little curiosity about what else the prefecture hit, and no intention of finding out.
It took me many years to visit anywhere in Tochigi besides Nikko—and even now, I’m ashamed to say that Tochigi-ken (alongside prefectures like Ibaraki, Fukui and Saga, which aren’t even home to destinations on the level of Nikko) is one of the parts of Japan I’ve explored the least.
If I’d found my Tochigi travel guide way back in 2014, it might not have taken me more than a decade to do the place justice. Better late than never, I suppose!
How to Get to (and Around) Tochigi
The good news? Frequent Shinkansen bullet trains travel from Tokyo to Utsunomiya in about an hour. Unless you’re traveling during a very busy period, you shouldn’t need to put too much thought into planning your journey, let alone to make a reservation. Once you arrive in Utsunomiya, many top destinations (namely Nikko) are accessible via a variety of local train lines.
If you’re headed to Nikko, meanwhile, I find the Tobu Line (and in particular, Spacia X Limited Express trains) to be the best way to access the town from Tokyo. Services from Asakusa Station are direct, frequent and fast; once you arrive at Tobu-Nikko Station, Tobu buses can take you virtually everywhere, both within the old town and far outside it, including along the shores of Lake Chuzenji.
My Favorite Things to Do in Tochigi Prefecture
Don’t just change trains in Utsunomiya
Utsunomiya is not a life-changing city, or any kind of hidden gem. Still, you own yourself a trip outside the ticket gates of JR Utsunomiya Station, even if this is just to have a beer along Orion Street, or to indulge in some of the city’s famous gyoza.
See wisteria at Ashikaga Flower Park
Planning a Tochigi itinerary for mid-to-late April? Plan on heading to Ashikaga Flower Park. Though this place is beautiful year-round, it is in the spring when its wisteria (fuji) trees, which are among the largest and most impressive in Japan, reach full bloom.
Explore the pottery town of Mashiko
If you’re like me, you haven’t had your hands on ceramic that you didn’t purchase at a store in decades. This, to me, is all the more reason to book a hands on experience at one of the shops in Mashiko, Tochigi’s charming pottery town. It’s also famous for soba, a lunch of which is the perfect way to recharge your batteries.
Seek adventure in Nasu-Shiobara
Not all things to do in Tochigi are cultural. The area of Nasu-Shiobara, for example, is largely rural. While some travelers will visit the so-called Nasu Highlands Gyro Park and explore the forest on a Segway-like vehicle (you can also roast and grind your own coffee, for a super rustic experience), others will got the Nasu Imperial Villa to photograph it as it seemingly floats in a sea of yellow rapeseed flowers.
Visit Nikko—but make sure to stay overnight
I’ve pointed out how disproportionately Nikko dominates the tourism conversation in Tochigi, but that doesn’t mean I dislike it—quite to the contrary. In fact, even if you’ve been on a day trip, I recommend staying overnight, whether to explore the wilds of Oku-Nikko (aka the area around Lake Chuzenji), or to enjoy central Nikko’s temples without crowds.
TIP: If you don’t stay at a fabulous city hotel like Nikko Kanaya Hotel, stay up on the shores of Lake Chuzenji at Hotel Shikisai, whose outdoor hot spring is absolutely fabulous.
Where to Base Yourself in Tochigi
Where you base yourself (and how many bases you have) will depend largely upon how long your trip is. For example, if you stay here a week, you could split yourself between Nikko, Utsunomiya and a more off-the-beaten-path area, be it Mashiko, Nasu-Shiobara or somewhere else entirely. Even staying 3-4 nights can allow you to break out of the “Tochigi is only Nikko” trap
Of course, no matter how many days in Tochigi you spend, there’s no rule that says you have to visit Nikko at all, particularly not if you’ve been here before. You could just as easily base yourself in Utsunomiya, and use local train and bus lines to explore outward from there. Yet another alternative could be to hunker down in places like Mashiko and Nasu-Shiobara, which are less about “doing” and more about enjoying.
Other FAQ About Visiting Japan’s Tochigi Prefecture
Which prefecture is Nikko in?
Nikko is located in Tochigi, a mountainous and largely rural prefecture located about an hour north of Tokyo by Shinkansen bullet train (or, depending on your destination, direct Limited Express train). Nikko is by far the most famous destination in Tochigi, though it’s not the only one.
What region is Tochigi in?
Tochigi is located in the northern part of the Kanto region, which also includes Tokyo, as well as peripheral Kanagawa and Chiba prefectures. In my opinion, however, Tochigi has more in common with Tohoku than with Kanto, though I’m not sure how many people share this impression.
What is the capital of Tochigi?
Utsunomiya is the administrative capital and largest city of Tochigi prefecture. However, it’s neither the best-known place in the prefecture, nor the one that outsiders visit most. That honor would go to Nikko, which is one of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Japan.
The Bottom Line
I hope my Tochigi travel guide has inspired you to explore this underrated corner of Japan outside of Nikko. And, of course, to explore Nikko more deeply—there’s immense value in staying there overnight. But I digress. Whether in urban Utsunomiya, rural Nasu-Shiobara or quirky spots like Ashikaga Flower Park or the Mashiko pottery town, Tochigi hides some of Japan’s most compelling and authentic destinations in plain sight. And whether you use this article to put your own trip together, or hire me to plan a custom Japan itinerary for you, I think you’ll agree with me that Tochigi-ken punches above its weight.
