I’ll never forget my first night in Kyoto, over a decade ago. It was a cool, crisp evening in early April; the sakura were in full bloom; there was an orange-pink glow in the clear sky.
After watching sunset from Kiyomizu-dera, as one does, I made my way down into Gion. At the time, I didn’t realize how large—how amorphous, really—Gion is, or that I’d need to be in a specific part of the sub-district to maximize my chances of encountering one of Kyoto’s iconic ladies.
I, of course, ended up having many more chances to see Geisha in Kyoto. If you have just one, this guide will explain how to have a successful Geisha encounter on the first try.
It Took Me Years to See a Geisha
Geishas in Kyoto are relatively common—but seeing one is not a given. As I described in the intro to this post, I wasn’t especially strategic as I explored Gion (Kyoto’s Geisha district) on my first night in the city in 2014. There were other confounding factors too—it was chilly and, because I wasn’t dressed for the weather, I moved faster than I should’ve and paid less attention to my surroundings—but I probably just wasn’t looking in the right places.
Then again, my very first Geisha encounter would end up taking place four years later while walking along a portion of Shijo-dori that isn’t the most common place to see them. With that being said, I do believe that having some kind of strategy (and a zoom lens—more on that in a second) is the most reliable way to make sure you see a Geisha, particularly if you don’t think you’ll be back to Kyoto for a while.
5 Ways to See a Geisha in Kyoto
Book a Geisha tea ceremony
The easiest way to see a Geisha? Book a Geisha tea ceremony, dinner or song and dance performance. This not only guarantees you an audience with a Maiko or Geiko, but allows you to photograph them as much as you’d like without having to ruffle any feathers.
TIP: You can also do this in select other cities, namely in Tokyo’s Asakusa district or in off-the-beaten-path Sakata at the Somaro teahouse.
Walk along Hanamikoji-dori at sunset
According to most commentators online, the most surefire way to see Kyoto Geisha is to walk up or down Gion’s Hanamikoji-dori street, which extends from northward and southward from Shijo-dori, a few blocks east of the river. If you do see a Geisha here, I recommend keeping your distance and not following her or stalking her.
Peer into windows near Tatsumibashi
The main role of Geisha is not to captivate foreign tourists, but to entertain small groups of Japanese people (often, but not always, businessmen) gathering for tea, meals and entertainment in the evening. It’s not uncommon to see these shows taking place through the windows of buildings along Shirakawa Canal near Tatsumibashi bridge.
Come during Gion Matsuri
One of my favorite ways to see Geisha in Japan is to see them riding on floats during Gion Matsuri in July. This is a nice midpoint between the spontaneity of seeing them “in the wild” and the highly staged environment of attending a tea ceremony or other sort of performance.
Get lucky
Like my first one, many of my subsequent Geisha encounters have been totally by chance. My favorite (which I of course didn’t photograph) was of a Geisha in the back of a taxi stopped right in front of me—man, that would’ve been an awesome picture! I’ve also seen them waiting at crosswalks and standing in front of convenience stores.
The Right (and Wrong) Way to Photograph a Geisha
The bad news? It is technically illegal to photograph Geisha in Gion without a permit or permission. The good news? This is not enforceable (or ever enforced, in practice). In fact, if you have the right equipment and intention, you can get awesome pictures of Geisha without bothering them or looking like a jerk. It’s a win/win, which is something many diatribes I read online don’t seem to aim toward.
The first thing you need to take picture of Geisha is a good zoom lens. While most smartphone cameras can zoom in, most of them do so using low-quality digital zoom, which doesn’t produce great images. This is one of the many reasons I think an actual camera is the best option for photography in Japan. Whatever device you’re using, never get up in a Geisha‘s face to photograph her. It’s best if she doesn’t even know you’re doing it!
Other FAQ About Seeing Geisha in Japan
Can you see Geishas in Tokyo?
Although there are some organized Geisha performances and events in various parts of Tokyo, the city is not as such as “Geisha” city. If you want to see Geisha in organic situations, it’s much better to do so in Kyoto than in Tokyo.
Is it easy to see a Geisha in Kyoto?
It’s easy to see a Geisha in Kyoto, but not guaranteed. In fact, it took me many years to see one! You can maximize your chances by walking up Hanamikoji-dori Street to Tatsumibashi Bridge (both in Gion) right after the sun sets.
Why can’t you take pictures of Geisha?
You can take pictures of Geisha, and not just in private settings such as tea ceremonies. While it is technically illegal to photograph Geisha in Kyoto, this is unenforceable—and, in practice, is never actually enforced. With this being said, I highly recommend practicing discreet photography. Never, ever get up in a Geisha‘s face!
The Bottom Line
Want to see Geisha in Kyoto without people with pitchforks accusing you of contributing to Japan’s “overtourism” problem? My guide provides a number of strategies, whether you walk through the streets of Gion at night and (discreetly) photograph them in organic situations, or book a tea ceremony or dinner and get a guaranteed encounter without any controversy or drama. Ultimately, however, it isn’t hard to see a Geisha—it took me years, initially; now I see them all the time. Need personalized help putting together the finer details of your Japan trip? Consider hiring me to plan it!
