The first thing I ever did in Tokushima—the first thing I ever did in Shikoku, in fact—was attend an awa odori performance.
Prior to entering the aptly-named Awa Odori Kaikan that evening, I’d never even heard the two words together; I had absolutely no idea what to expect. 30 minutes later, however, I left the hall absolutely transfixed, and forever changed by what I’d seen.
Among other things, I knew I’d have to one day attend that actual Awa Odori Festival. It ended up taking almost eight years, but I made it—and I hope I can inspire you to make it, too.
Why It Took Me Almost a Decade to Attend Awa Odori
If you’ve read other posts I’ve made about summer festivals in Akita and Aomori, how I learned about the Awa Odori matsuri won’t come as a surprise. Namely I was in Tokushima on a “normal” city, minding my own business, and it smacked me upside the head. Oh wait, I just realized that I already explained this in the intro. Sorry for the retread, but also not sorry.
Indeed, in spite of how impressed I left Tokushima after having seen awa odori in a “controlled” setting, I wouldn’t see the festival for real for almost another decade. The short answer is to why is that covid happened, and Japan in response to it put in place some of the world’s longest and harshest border restrictions. The long answer is that I could’ve gone in 2017, 2018 or 2019, but didn’t have the urgency to do so; I had to wait until 2024 as a result.
5 Things to Know About Awa Odori
It’s not an all-day event
Like many of Japan’s other summer festivals, Awa Odori doesn’t begin at sunset and end a few hours later. On the other hand, food trucks don’t start setting up until probably 3 or 4 PM, and even the amateur dances don’t begin until 30 minutes before the sun goes down. There’s no need for you to get there in the morning, for example, or really anytime before lunch.
But the party starts at night
Of course, even though you can technically see some dancers while there’s still light, it isn’t until nighttime that things really kick into high gear, whether that’s the performances at the professional stages, or the small street parties I’ll talk about in a few paragraphs. Don’t be fooled by any other Awa Odori guide that tells you to expect otherwise!
So, see Tokushima before the festival begins
The great news about Awa Odori being mainly a nighttime thing? You can spend the daytime exploring Tokushima, even if the city isn’t the most touristic on its face. To be sure, you probably won’t have time to take popular Tokushima day trips to the Naruto Whirlpools or into the Iya Valley. On the other hand, it should be feasible (at a minimum) to go up the Bizan Mountain Ropeway.
(And eat after it ends)
Although I got hungry (or thirsty, if we’re honest—I wanted/needed a buzz) before things kicked off, I didn’t actually eat until after I’d had my filling of watching the dances. Many an Awa Odori travel guide will advise you to eat during the main part of the festival, but as a photographer, I find this counterproductive. How are you supposed to hold a camera if you’re trying to scarf down a plate of yakisoba?
Awa Odori is unlike any other Japanese festival
I’ve done enough festivals in Japan to be able to make bold declarations, so here’s one: I think Awa Odori might be my favorite. And not just because of the intricacy of the dancing and the beauty of the costumes. No, my best memories involved walking down random alleys and happening upon small dance parties, and the utter joy that seemed to come over the entire city during the event. I’ll never, ever forget it!
Do You Actually Need to Stay Overnight in Tokushima During Awa Odori?
As has been the case for many of the matsuri I’ve visited over the years, I stressed out over getting a hotel in Tokushima during Awa Odori. For a while, I was unable to do so! I actually almost considered canceling my trip, until I managed to score a room about six months in advance (and then, found a room at the same hotel even cheaper just a day before my arrival).
Take it from me: You shouldn’t cancel your trip just because Awa Odori hotels. Personally, I had my fill of the festival long before the last train back to Takamatsu (where many matsuri attendees sleep) left. My advice, in fact, would be to get comfortable with the possibility of sleeping outside of Tokushima, but to actively look for accommodation in the city, all the way up until the last minute.
Other FAQ About Awa Odori 2025
How long does Awa Odori last?
Awa Odori lasts between the 12-15 of August each year, right in the middle of the Obon Festival. You don’t need to attend all four nights—each night is more or less the same—but having four possibilities gives you some flexibility as to where in your summer Japan itinerary you end up slotting Tokushima in.
What happens in Awa Odori?
Awa Odori is sometimes known as the “fool’s dance,” although the performers of said dance (some of whom are professional, others of whom are highly-practiced amateurs) are anything but fools. In fact, it’s one of the most beautiful and intricate dances I’ve had the pleasure of watching anywhere in Japan. Anyway, dancing begins at several locations (both free and paid) throughout Tokushima City right around sunset, and continues throughout the night. While walking between dance stages, you can stop at any number of food and drink trucks that have been set up.
What do people wear in Awa Odori?
Although many locals wear yukata or happi (basically, the jacket of a kimono) to Awa Odori, it’s perfectly fine to wear normal Western-style clothes if that’s what you prefer. However, I recommend wearing something airy and open, as it tends to be extremely hot and sticky in mid-August, when Awa Odori takes place.
The Bottom Line
As someone who has seen many, many summer matsuri in Japan, let me proudly declare: Tokushima’s Awa Odori Festival is right up there with the best of them. The bad news? Attending the festival can be overwhelming, primarily due to the low quantity of hotel rooms available in Tokushima. The good news? Whether you get lucky and are able to book a room, or simply spend the night in Takamatsu and come and go by train, Awa Odori is worth whatever trouble ends up being required for you to attend. Need personalized help making it happen? Consider hiring me to plan your trip!
