In 2023, when Japan Railways announced a significant increase in the price of the JR Pass, I (along with many other commentators) decried the change as a tragedy. Gone, seemingly forever, was a cheap and easy way for foreigners to explore Japan.
This was true, of course—I almost never recommend that my clients buy a rail pass when they travel to Japan these days. But there’s another side to it as well. Namely, that it unlocks the use of convenient third-party rail lines, such as the Kansai region’s Keihan Main Line.
Whether you’re completely unfamiliar with this train or have ridden it but want to know more, I encourage you to continue reading my Keihan Line travel guide.
Why the Keihan Line is a Game-changer
When I first started traveling in Japan, the Kyoto Keihan Line was a bit of an afterthought for me—I think I accidentally rode it one time when I was looking for the subway. However, the more I explored the city (and, especially, after I moved there), I realized it was totally indispensable to getting around. This was especially true when traveling north-south in historical Higashiyama, but also for trips between Kyoto and Osaka.
The alternative was riding Kyoto’s increasingly crowded buses to and from Kyoto Station and to other destinations around the city, whose expanse is much larger than you’d think traipsing amid temples. Now, I don’t fear buses in Japan nearly as much as I used to, but the reality is that I’d much rather ride rails than roads.
My Favorite Ways to Ride the Keihan Line
North-South in Higashiyama, Kyoto
For most travelers, four particular stops along the Keihan Main Line—Sanjo, Gion-shijo, Kiyomizu-gojo and Shichijo—are the most useful. That’s because they connect popular tourist destinations in the Higashiyama district and the Gion Geisha sub-district. Note that this line runs just east of the Kamo River, meaning you’ll need to walk 10-15 minutes westward to reach your final destination.
From Higashiyama to Fushimi Inari Shrine
If you board the Osaka Keihan Line but get off early (specifically, at Fushimi Inari Station), you can quickly travel from Kiyomizu-dera temple to Fushimi Inari Taisha. This is much faster than going to Kyoto Station and boarding the JR Nara Line. Note that you’ll need to board a Local or Sub-express service to do this, as Limited Express trains don’t stop here!
TIP: Want to take my friend Kotaro’s sake tasting tour? Get off the Keihan Line at Fushimi Momoyama Station!
From Kyoto to Osaka
One of my favorite ways to avail the Keihan Line is to travel between Kyoto and Osaka. This allows you to travel directly from Higashiyama to Kyobashi (which is close to Osaka Castle) and Yodoyabashi (which is walking distance from Dotonbori) stations. The alternative is riding the JR Lines from Kyoto Station to Osaka Station, which requires feeder transport on either end.
From Kyoto to Lake Biwa
Most guides on how to use the Keihan Line don’t explain that on some services, Keihan trains are disguised as other trains. In particular, about half the Subway Tozai Line trains continue westward from Kyoto to Otsu, the capital of Shiga prefecture on the shores of Lake Biwa. These are actually operated by Keihan, even though you access them via Kyoto City Subway stations!
To reach Kifune and Kurama
Want to visit Kifune-jinja shrine and Kurama-dera temple in northeastern Kyoto? First, ride the Keihan Line to its northern terminus at Demachiyanagi. Then transfer to the Eizan Line, which you can ride to either of these places. You can also ride the other “branch” to Yase, which in the autumn is home to a “maple tunnel,” and all year can connect you to a cable car that goes up to Mt. Hiei and Enryaku-ji temple.
Other Private Railways in the Kansai Region
The Keihan Main Line is now a priceless part of my Kyoto travel strategy, but it’s not the only “alternative” I use. Here are some others:
- Kyoto City Subway: You can access many destinations in central Kyoto via the north-south Karasuma Line (notably, the Kyoto Imperial Palace) and east-west Tozai Line (Nijo Castle; Hei’an Shrine).
- Hankyu Railway: Most tourists use Hankyu to travel from Kawaramachi and Karasuma stations in central Kyoto to Arashiyama, but this train actually continues to Osaka and even all the way to Kobe.
- Kintetsu Line: Departing from Kyoto Station (which makes it convenient to connect with JR services), the Kintetsu Line is the best way to reach the tourist core of Nara from Kyoto.
- Eizan Railway: As I described above, connecting the Keihan Line to the Eizan Railway is the easiest way to reach Kurama-dera and Kifune-jinja.
- Randen Tram: The least useful of Kyoto’s train lines, Randen connects Arashiyama with smaller temples in northern Kyoto, including Ninna-ji.
As is the case with Keihan—in other words, you don’t need a Keihan Rail Pass—these trains are all easy and cheap enough to use with PASMO, Suica or cash alone. No complicated pass necessary!
Other FAQ About Using the Keihan Line
What is Keihan Line in Kyoto?
The Keihan Electric Railway, also known as the Keihan Main Line or simply the Keihan Line, is a private railway that operates within Kyoto, as well as between Kyoto and Osaka and Shiga prefectures. Most tourists use it to travel between four stops—Sanjo, Gion-shijo, Kiyomizu-gojo and Shichijo—which connect popular attractions in the historical Higashiyama district.
Can I use Suica on the Keihan Main Line?
Yes! You can also use PASMO and ICOCA, two other popular stored valued cards. Alternatively, you can use cash to buy Keihan Main Line tickets, though this is not as seamless or quick an option, particularly if you’re connecting from other railway operators.
Is Keihan Main Line a subway?
Although the Keihan Main Line travels partially underground, it is not a subway in the traditional sense. Namely, it doesn’t come as often or as predictably as the Kyoto City Subway, meaning that it isn’t quite as useful a way to travel.
The Bottom Line
This Keihan Line travel guide unlocks the Kansai region’s convenient Keihan Electric Railway, which is amazing not only for exploring Kyoto, but also for traveling to nearby Osaka and Lake Biwa. Accessible using only your PASMO or Suica card, the Keihan-sen is arguably even easier to use than the more popular JR Lines serving this part of Japan. I hope you’ve now got a clear idea of how (and why) to use it. Need personalized assistance putting your next trip to Japan together? I do hope you’ll consider hiring me to plan it for you!
