Kyoto is often at the center of discussions about overtourism in Japan. And even though I mostly debunk the concept of overtourism itself in my article about the subject, Kyoto’s crowdedness is undeniable.
With this being said, Kyoto is a huge city, which extends far beyond tourist spots like Kiyomizu-dera temple in Higashiyama and the Sagano Bamboo Grove in Arashiyama. In fact, many parts of Kyoto have virtually no tourists at all.
And I’m not just talking about residential districts. Fabulous spots like Kifune and Kurama, a shrine-and-temple pair in far northwestern Kyoto, are just waiting for you to discover them.
The Truth About Kurama and Kibune
Before I explain how to choose between Kifune or Kurama (SPOILER ALERT: You should visit both if you can!), I did want to explain some things about these sacred sites—first, how to reach them. After reaching Demachiyanagi Station, which is accessible via both the Keihan Main Line and the Kyoto Subway Karasuma Line, it’s a ~30 minute straight shot on the Kurama Line of the Eizan Railway to either Kibune-guchi or Kurama stations.
It doesn’t really matter where you get off—once you’re in the area, you can walk from one spot to the other. Likewise, it’s a cheap journey, costing around ¥700 one-way all the way from Kyoto Station. You won’t need to play popular online casinos in Japan to win extra money (although you can, if you want to say hello to free spins and lots of bonuses). In the case of Kibune (which is an alternate spelling for “Kifune”) there’s also no entrance fee, which makes it an even more affordable excursion.
How to Plan Your Visit to Kifune-jinja and Kurama-dera
Come on ride the train(s)
As I explained above, you will need to take a few trains to reach these sacred spots from most places in Kyoto. Depending upon the order in which you wish to visit the temples (more on how to decide that in a second), you can get off the Eizan Kurama Line at either Kibune-guchi or Kurama stations.
Pick a starting point
This article is about Kifune vs Kurama, but I’m going to assume you will visit both. However, you do need to start at one. If you follow my advice and set off first thing, but plan to eat soumen at Kifune (again, more on that in a second), it’s best to start at Kurama. If it’s already mid-day or lunch is not a concern, then you can start at Kifune.
To hike or not to hike?
You can hike between Kifune-jinja and Kurama-dera, along an easy (but long) path that takes about 2-3 hours one-way. However, this is not an appealing option to all travelers, whether because of time issues or because of a lack of stamina or physical fitness. If you don’t hike, then go back to one station and ride the Eizan Line to the other.
A culinary adventure
When it comes to food, Kurama vs Kifune presents a choice. While there are cute restaurants near the entrance of Kurama-dera, no culinary experience is near as iconic as the nagashi soumen noodles of Hirobun at Kifune-jinja, which literally flow onto your plate down a chute of water. They’re only available in summer, however.
The unfortunate onsen truth
For many years before covid-19, Kurama Onsen was arguably the best public bath house in Kyoto, and although one of the least crowded on account of its location. Unfortunately, the onsen remains “temporarily closed” years after all pandemic restrictions in Japan ended, with no re-opening date set.
Detours on the Way Back (or There)
The Eizan Railway isn’t one of Kyoto’s most popular train lines for most travelers, but there are some interesting spots along it nonetheless:
- The “Maple Tunnel” between Ichihara and Ninose stations is a gorgeous spectacle you can enjoy without leaving the train, with peak red colors around the last week of November.
- Likewise, you can ride the Eizan Kurama Line back to Takaragaike Station and transfer to the Eizan Main Line and get off at Yase Hieizanguchi.
- In autumn, walk along the Yase “Maple Path.” The rest of the year (except during winter), you can ride the Keifuku Railway up to Enryaku-ji temple, which offers stunning views of Lake Biwa in Shiga prefecture.
- While Ruriko-in temple (which is also near Yase Hieizanguchi) is also a popular place to visit in autumn, the mirrored effect of its polished wood floor looks gorgeous no matter what nature is doing.
Aren’t walking the path from Kurama to Kifune during the autumn season? Well, Enryaku-ji and the view from it are fabulous anytime of year!
Other FAQ About Kurama-dera and Kifune-jinja
Is Kibune worth visiting?
Kifune-jinja is one of my favorite places in Kyoto. Although it’s a little far from the city center, the journey is more than worth it. The shrine is mystical and picturesque, and even during peak tourist times isn’t nearly as crowded as other, more famous spots in Kyoto.
How long is the hike from Kurama to Kibune?
Some of this depends upon your pace. I have completed the hike from Kurama to Kifune in less than two hours, though official materials suggest it usually takes about three hours. Certainly, a trip encompassing both Kifune Shrine and Kurama Temple won’t take longer than half a day.
How long to spend in Kibune?
Kifune Shrine itself requires about an hour to explore on you reach the main entrance. However, if you walk there from the station or plan to enjoy soumen noodles once you get there, you can plan on doubling or even tripling this time.
The Bottom Line
Kifune and Kurama are the perfect spots to visit if you want to enjoy the magic of Kyoto, but aren’t a fan of the crowds. After a long but easy train journey from the city center, you’ll arrive ready to explore this shrine-and-temple pair, where you’ll find the true spirit of Kyoto. If you can, go first thing in the morning—at that time, these spots are not just uncrowded, but may actually be deserted! They also put on a show in all four seasons, so be prepared for that. Need personalized help putting together the ultimate Kyoto itinerary? Consider hiring me to plan your trip to Japan!
