Oddly, my dreams of spending New Year’s Eve in Kyoto were based on false information. Years ago, you see, I became convinced that Geisha would parade through the streets of Kyoto on December 31. I know now that this is not true.
(It is true, however, that there are Geiko and Maiko events in both mid-December and mid-January, though I’ll speak about those a little later.)
The good news? There are definitely reasons to spend the New Year in Kyoto, most notably a traditional bell-ringing at a temple most tourists miss on other days of the year. The better news? This—thankfully—isn’t the only game in town.
What People Get Wrong About Celebrating the New Year in Japan
When many travelers picture themselves celebrating NYE in Japan, they see the skyscrapers of Tokyo. They see a wild party—something à la Times Square in New York City—and fireworks. They sell hundreds of thousands, if not millions of people, waiting to mark the start of the New Year at midnight. Unfortunately for them, none of these things happen in Japan, in Tokyo or otherwise.
Rather than partying in Tokyo, most Japanese people travel to their hometowns to be with family. They stay in rather they go out; they go to bed early. There are no fireworks; worse, most businesses throughout Japan are closed for several days. Instead of celebrating on December 31, people instead make shrine visits (collectively known as Hatsumode) within the first few days of the year.
5 Ways to Ring in the New Year in Kyoto
Joya-no-kane Bell-ringing
The bad news? Far from the sleepy endeavor you might expect it to be, Joya-no-kane is a massive event that sees the otherwise anonymous Chion-in temple filled with thousands of people. The good news? Although you’re likely to need to wait in line for 2-3 hours, I can say that this is generally worth it.
Explore sacred sites independently
Which is not to say that the only way to do a Kyoto New Year is to go there. Indeed, while most “attractions” are closed, you can still spend the evening walking through historical Higashiyama—I like the walk from the torii of Hei’an Shrine down to Kiyomizu-dera.
Sunrise on Sanjo Ohashi Bridge
Although Japanese people aren’t big about staying up until midnight, they do have a tendency to wake up early for sunrise. The best place in central Kyoto to do this is Sanjo Ohashi bridge. Do keep in mind that “sunrise” will take place ~30 minutes later than the official time due to mountains bordering Kyoto to the east.
Early New Year’s morning in Arashiyama
Another place where you might spend the morning after NYE in Kyoto? Arashiyama, whether in the Sagano Bamboo Grove, or somewhere slightly more remote such as Saga Toriimoto Old Street. Relatively few people will be here, particularly during the earlier hours of the morning.
(Or Fushimi)
As a Shinto shrine, Fushimi Inari Shrine is open all night on New Year’s Eve, and is also open throughout New Year’s Day. I’d probably recommend going very early in the morning for the quietest visit, though you can always hike 15-20 minutes past the main gates to avoid crowds, no matter the day.
Hatsuyori: Kyoto’s January Geisha Event
As I mentioned in the introduction to this post, I was mistaken in having thought the Geisha would be part of Kyoto NYE in any way. However, I wasn’t completely wrong in thinking that there were winter-related Geiko and Maiko events in Kyoto. Most specifically, if you can manage to be in Kyoto a couple of weeks later in January (specifically on January 13), you can witness the Hatsuyori procession.
It starts at 12 PM, and I recommend waiting just north of Tatsumibashi bridge in Gion. You’ll see the laides going to the house of their teacher, Yachiyo Inoue, dressed in their best kimono. If you’ll be in Kyoto in early December you can also see this in the form of Kotohajime, though I think this is not relevant for travelers who will be in Kyoto for NYE.
Other FAQ About New Year’s Eve in Kyoto
What is there to do in Kyoto on New Year’s Eve?
The most substantive thing to do in Kyoto on NYE is to attend the Joya-no-kane bell ringing at Chion-in temple. However, you can also simply enjoy the city’s ancient sights on a cold, dark night, or wake up early the next day to do the same.
Is Kyoto busy in the New Year?
Kyoto isn’t as busy as, say, Times Square NYC on New Year’s Eve. However, certain places in Kyoto (namely Shinto shrines) will be busy during the first few days of the New Year, as local Japanese families do their Hatsumode, i.e. the first shrine visit of the year.
Is Kyoto worth visiting in December?
December is an interesting month to visit Kyoto. For the first couple of weeks, it’s likely that many autumn leaves will still be on the trees. In late December, meanwhile, temperatures drop and snow can fall. And on December 31, you can attend a traditional bell-ringing ceremony at Chion-in temple.
The Bottom Line
Celebrating the New Year in Kyoto is not as strange as it might seem as first glance. For starters, not even in Tokyo do you get the fireworks, fanfare and parties you might expect in other huge cities around the world. Knowing this, a more subdued arrangement in a historical city like Kyoto is vastly preferable. This is true whether you wait in line for the Joya-no-kane bell-ringing (which, if I’m honest, is anything but “subdued”) or simply enjoy the ambiance at any number of other locations throughout the city. No matter where you ring in the New Year, consider hiring me to plan your trip.
