I started traveling in Japan over a decade ago, which means that I was able to see many destinations now associated with overtourism before they became so crowded. (REMINDER: As you might have read elsewhere on this site, I generally find the term “overtourism” to be a canard that misdirects the conversation. But I digress.)
Unfortunately, one place I never managed to make it to was Yamagata prefecture’s Ginzan Onsen. I wasn’t even aware it existed until most of the rest of the world was. And so by the time I finally visited (early 2025), almost everyone else had already been.
On the other hand, my vast Japan travel experience positions me well to answer the most important question. Namely, is Ginzan Onsen worth visiting?
Why Ginzan Onsen Hotels Are So Impossible to Book
If you find Ginzan Onsen expensive, you’re not alone. When I booked my hotel for January 2025 back in July 2024, I literally couldn’t believe the price I saw—even considering the exchange rate. Of course, I was lucky to be able to book a hotel at all. Accommodation here, especially for the winter season, tends to book out completely six months in advance. This, of course, is mostly because of Ginzan Onsen’s Spirited Away fame.
Moreover, most Ginzan Onsen hotels only offer direct booking. In other words, you won’t even see availability when you search via online travel agencies as Booking.com or even Japanican. So unless you’re comfortable booking half a year out, and have bookmarked the websites of obscure hotels like Ginzanso and Kosekiya, you probably won’t even have the chance to book a Ginzan Onsen hotel.
Why Ginzan Onsen Disappointed Me
It’s cumbersome to reach

It’s not accurate to say that Ginzan Onsen is difficult to reach. However, it does take a long time and several steps. You need to get to Oishida Station, which is three hours from Tokyo via Shinkansen Tsubasa, and farther from most other destinations in Japan. You then need to ride a local bus 30 minutes from there to Ginzan Onsen.
There isn’t much to see

Part of the reason I find Ginzan Onsen overrated? It’s a single street, located on either sides of a thermal creek. Most of what there is to do there is admiring the Taisho Roman bath houses. I mean, assuming you aren’t outside taking a foot bath, or that you don’t walk behind the town to visit Shirogane Falls.
It’s packed to the gills

In spite of how small and lacking in things to do Ginzan Onsen is, it is absolutely bursting at the seams with tourists. Many of whom, no doubt, were drawn here because they heard a rumor that Ginzan Onsen inspired the classic movie Spirited Away. Thankfully, many of the tourists here are Taiwanese, so they’re at least polite.
Weather is unpredictable, even in winter

There are many reasons that taking a Ginzan Onsen day trip can be advantageous. Among them? The fact that it doesn’t always snow in winter. What I mean by this is that if you stay overnight, you may have unrealistic expectations of being able to photograph Ginzan Onsen in heavy snow. (It rained when I visited in January 2025.)
It’s expensive, and a poor ROI

Most hotels in Ginzan Onsen require a minimum of two travelers per room; if you’re a solo traveler, you will need to pay for two places. This, combined with low supply and high demand, means that you’re looking at 200-400 USD per person, per night to stay in Ginzan Onsen, even at the current exchange rate. This just isn’t worth it.
Is Ginzan Onsen Better as a Day Trip?
As I waited in the rain for Ginzan Onsen to light up, and realized that the last bus back to Oishida wouldn’t be leaving for more than another hour, I wondered what the point of staying overnight had really been. While it felt good to be able to retreat to the heat of my own room within moments of packing up my gear outside, the reality is that neither the food served nor the room provided was worth the expensive.
To put it another way, I’m not arguing against the notion that Ginzan Onsen is worth visiting. Given that it’s only 30 minutes by bus from a Shinkansen stop, the ROI of coming here for a day is pretty good. The question is whether you should sleep here. And, well, given how regretful I feel after having done so, I can’t in good conscience recommend that you do.
Other FAQ About Visiting Ginzan Onsen
How long should I stay in Ginzan Onsen?
If money is no object for you and you have plenty of free time on your trip to Japan, then you can absolutely stay a night or two at Ginzan Onsen. If not, then a day trip is perfectly acceptable—get to Oishida Station as early as possible; and go back on the last bus of the night.
Why is Ginzan Onsen famous?
As is the case with Taiwan’s Jiufen, it isn’t clear whether Ginzan Onsen has any factual relation to the Studio Ghibli classic Spirited Away. However, the internet’s association of Ginzan Onsen with the events of the film has made it a must-visit destination for hundreds of thousands (if not millions) of people.
Does it always snow in Ginzan Onsen?
The night I visited Ginzan Onsen, in January 2025, it rained. So while there was old snow on the ground, I unfortunately know from personal experience that it doesn’t always snow in Ginzan Onsen. To put it another way, if you are set on getting pictures of Ginzan Onsen in the falling snow, plan on staying at least a couple of nights to avoid the disappointment of not having it.
The Bottom Line
Is Ginzan Onsen worth visiting? It honestly depends on the context. If you’re already planning to be somewhere in Yamagata prefecture and can easily come on a day trip, then I’d say you have nothing to lose. Ginzan Onsen, as such, is really only a single street. Visiting for the day allows you to see what it’s all about, particularly if you can stay until after night falls. Staying overnight will cost you several hundred dollars, however, but doesn’t really bring much benefit for that substantial extra amount. Need personalized help deciding which Japan destinations are right for you? Commission a custom Japan itinerary today!