I’ve written before about the onsen dilemma so many foreign visitors to Japan face. They want to experience Japan’s hot springs culture, but find it difficult or even intimidating to do so.
One of the key steps required to alleviate these feelings—and, more to the point, to make onsen part of your trip—is to find the right destination. And contrary to what you might’ve been led to believe, Hakone is not the only option, in spite of how convenient it is to Tokyo.
Now, it’s possible that this Kaga Onsen itinerary is the first you’ve ever heard of this hot springs idyll in Ishikawa prefecture near Kanazawa. But don’t let that put you off the idea of coming here!
Kaga Onsen: Day Trip or Destination?
A Kaga Onsen day trip is appealing for a few reasons. Firstly, because travelers are increasingly likely to find themselves in Kanazawa, which is just 20 minutes away via the newly-opened Hokuriku Shinkansen extension. The short distance means that not having a “local” hotel is a moot point, since you can get back to Kanazawa, door-to-door, in less than an hour once you’ve finished sightseeing.
On the other hand, I can say from personal experience that it can be amazing to stay a night or two in Kaga. This is true whether you go higher end—Hatori, for instance—or something more modest, such as Rurikoh. Paradoxically, I found the Kaga itself actually makes a good base for day trips, in spite of so often being a day trip destination itself.
Things to Do in Kaga Onsen
Decide between Yamashiro or Yamanaka
In my opinion, Yamashiro Onsen is the better of the two main hot springs areas in Kaga, for reasons I’ll explain further in subsequent paragraphs. However, Yamanaka Onsen is nothing to shake a stick at, particularly if a more rural and wooded feel is more important to you than the creature comforts of a town.
Book a hotel (if you plan to stay overnight)
The great news is that if you don’t want to go from Kanazawa to Kaga Onsen (and back) in a day, both Yamashiro and Yamanaka are filled with awesome hotel options, including Hatori and Rurikoh, which I mentioned above. The only caution I would give you is that while not every hotel in Kaga is expensive, truly affordable options are limited.
Kick things off with a bath
One reason I prefer Yamashiro over Yamanaka? There’s nowhere in Yamanaka as picturesque and unique as the Kosoyu Public Bath House, which dates back to the Meiji period, and has iconic colorful windows both within the bathing areas, as well as on the top-floor lounge. Of course, even if you’re not as aesthetically-minded as I am, there are many places for a bath in Kaga, even for day trippers.
Do some clothed sightseeing
Likewise, the majority of things to do in Kaga don’t even require that you take your clothes off. In Yamashiro, my favorite activities include Yakuo-in Onsen-ji temple, and the Rosanjin Museum, as well as various shops selling Kaga-yaki pottery. In Yamanaka, I find the most attractive attractions to be the various bridges along the Daishoji River, though Io-ji temple is certainly nothing to shake a stick at.
Don’t forget about Kaga Daikannon
The good news? As your Shinkansen arrives at Kagaonsen Station, it’s impossible not to feel the grandeur of the gilded Daikannon rising just to the north of it. The bad news? It’s unfortunately much better to look upon from afar. The statue has fallen into disrepair in recent years, to the extent that it is no longer possible to go inside it, even if you have time to do so.
How Long Do You Need in Kaga Onsen?
We’ve already established that you can see Kaga Onsen on a day trip. Logistically, here’s how that would work. Ride the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Kagaonsen Station, then get on a bus to either Yamashiro Onsen or Yamanaka Onsen. Get off at your stop of choice, then sightsee to your heart’s content—ideally, this will include one or more stops at public bath facilities.
On the other hand, if you fall more toward a high number when it comes to how many days in Kaga Onsen you should spend, this can push you in a couple of potential directions. Some travelers will dig deep into Kaga, exploring Yamanaka if they’re staying in Yamashiro, or vice-versa. Others will take my suggestion from above, and instead use Kaga as a base for other outbound day trips.
Other FAQ About Visiting Kaga Onsen
Is Kaga Onsen worth visiting?
Kaga Onsen is definitely worth visiting, though you do need to be intentional about your trip. While Kagaonsen Station is now a Shinkansen bullet train depot, you will need to take a bus onward from here either to Yamashiro Onsen or Yamanaka Onsen.
What to do around Kaga Onsen?
Beyond the attractions on offer in Kaga Onsen—in other words, Yamashiro Onsen and Yamanaka Onsen—itself, Ishikawa Prefecture is a veritable treasure trove. For most travelers, this involves spending time in Kanazawa City, though you could also visit Nata-dera temple in Komatsu, or rent a car and drive the Noto Peninsula.
How do you get around Kaga Onsen?
The bad news? You need to ride a bus to get from Kagaonsen Station to the main hot springs towns of Yamashiro and Yamanaka. The good news? Once you do, both of these places are eminently walkable, which means that you don’t have to worry about transportation.
The Bottom Line
This Kaga Onsen itinerary will inform and inspire your trip to Kaga, whether or not you even knew it existed prior to reading. For some travelers, it’s easy enough to see Kaga on a day trip from Kanazawa, particularly if staying overnight is unappealing to you. In other cases, you’ll choose one of the onsen hotels on offer in Kaga’s two main hot springs areas, Yamashiro (which is my personal favorite) and Yamanaka. Regardless of how your visit to Kaga Onsen ends up manifesting I hope you’ll consider hiring me to plan your trip. Your custom itinerary will include personalized daily recommendations for everything you need—and then some.
