I’m somewhat embarrassed to say this, given how long I’ve been traveling to Japan, but I have only recently been able to say that I’ve visited all 12 of Japan’s “original” castles.
Embarrassed not because such a declaration matters, but because I had already seen 10 of them many years ago. I simply kept making excuses not to complete the collection, as it were.
In some ways, it isn’t surprising that one of the final two was Uwajima Castle—with just a single tower perched atop a hill overlooking the Seto Inland Sea, it is by far the smallest and most humble structure not destroyed during the Meiji Restoration. But that isn’t the entire story.
Why I Waited So Long to Visit Uwajima
As you know if you’ve read this blog for any length of time, I basically never shut up about Shikoku. I try to go there at least once a year, and have visited all its prefectures multiple times. Uwajima, however, is off the beaten path, even for Shikoku. It’s a fairly substantial train ride from Matsuyama, and then a steep (if relatively short) uphill hike once you get to the town.
There’s also the fact that Uwajima Castle, at least on paper, doesn’t appear that impressive. The actual structure is the smallest one among all of Japan’s “original” castles, and while it’s impressively perched a top a hill (this, frankly, does not come across well online or in pictures more generally), it’s not a place that feels as important as it once was (it served as the western base of the Date Samurai clan for more than 400 years).
Ways to Visit Uwajima Castle
Day trip from Matsuyama
The easiest way to visit Uwajima Castle is on a day trip from Matsuyama. Limited Express services along the JR Yosan Line depart once per hour, and take about 75 minutes each way en route. The castle is another 20-30 minutes each way on foot, meaning that even with lunch, you can complete this in half a day.
Day trip from Kochi
Reaching Uwajima from Kochi City is a little bit more cumbersome, but is still possible. It takes around 5 hours one-way by train, which means it’s not a realistic day trip. However, if you have a car and plan to be in rural Kochi-ken (along the Shimanto River, for example), it’s definitely doable.
Overnight in Uwajima
On one hand, there’s not a lot to do in Uwajima besides visiting Uwajima Castle. On the other hand, staying overnight (I like the simple but functional JR Clement Hotel Uwajima) allows you to take your time exploring the nooks and crannies of the town, many of which are special in spite of not being worthy of a travel guide.
During a Shikoku road trip
I mentioned, in the Kochi paragraph, that having a car can make it easier to visit Uwajima. It can also be more exciting, such as if you’re visiting Uwajima on the same day as Nikobuchi waterfall, Cape Ashizuri or the aforementioned Shimanto River.
On the way to Kyushu
In fact, if you planned it out just right, you could stop at Uwajima on your way from Shikoku to Kyushu. Specifically, drive to Uwajima in the morning and visit the castle. Then, drive northward to Yawatahama, the port where ferries to Beppu depart.
Is Uwajima Castle Worth Visiting?
Even though I visited on a mostly-cloudy day, and during the middle of a tiring road trip through Shikoku, I found Uwajima Castle impressive. This was particularly the case because of the steep climb I mentioned earlier. I reached the top not expecting to be impressed by what awaited me, and instead let out an audible gasp as I gazed upon on the tenshu, which was perfectly framed by sakura.
Now, there’s of course the question of how far you’ll need to travel to reach Uwajima. It’s a lot less heavy of a lift, for instance, if you’re already going to be in Matsuyama, or if you yourself are driving around Shikoku. Conversely, I might not recommend that you visit Uwajima Castle if doing so would require you to travel all the way from Tokyo or even Osaka.
Other FAQ About Uwajima Castle
What is Uwajima known for?
These days, Uwajima is known primarily for being home to Uwajima Castle, which is its top tourist attractions. For centuries throughout history, however, Uwajima served as a base for one of Japan’s most important Samurai clans, which is why the castle was built in the first place.
How do you get to Uwajima?
You can reach Uwajima by riding the JR Yosan Line (ideally, a Limited Express service) from Matsuyama, the largest city on Shikoku island. Alternatively, the city is most easily accessible by car not only from Matsuyama, but also from Kochi City.
Where is Uwajima?
Uwajima is located in Ehime, the westernmost prefecture of Japan’s Shikoku island. However, it’s in the southern portion of Ehime, which means that it’s also rather close to Kochi. If you look at a map of Shikoku, you’ll see Uwajima in the far southwestern corner.
The Bottom Line
Uwajima Castle is much more impressive than it seems from ground level (and certainly, from reading about it on the internet). Located in a corner of Ehime prefecture that you’re unlikely to visit unless you’re intentional about it, it is the most obscure of Japan’s “original” castles for a reason. And yet it is precisely because of these factors—the low expectations you’re likely to have; the arduous journey you’re almost guaranteed to need to make—that Uwajima-jo will delight and surprise you, once you finally get there. You can further sweeten the deal when you hire me to plan a personalized Japan itinerary.
