Of all the questions people ask me, my least favorite is the most cliché. Where is your favorite place to visit in Japan?
Now, I know that most who ask this question have good intentions; I don’t take this stand to attack them. But the more parts of Japan I explore, the more impossible it becomes to declare that one is above all the rest, even if there are a few I keep coming back to again and again (such as the Tohoku region).
Indeed, if you were to ask me “is Yamagata worth visiting?” (whether within or outside of the context of a trip to Tohoku), we could have a much more interesting discussion. Shall we?
Why Yamagata Keeps Drawing Me Back
As you might gather reading through this post, I’ve pieced together a cohesive Yamagata itinerary only after many years of disparate trips. After my first visit to the prefecture (in winter of 2019, when I saw the juhyo, or snow monsters, atop Mt. Zao), I’ve approached my Yamagata bucket list in a slow, deliberate fashion, whether I was hiking at Yamadera or sipping Nihonshu in Sakata.
This, I think, is part of why I’ve fallen to deeply in love with Yamagata-ken. The other part? Well, it’s simply the variety of destinations as experiences. As you’ll see below, eclecticism is the name of the game here, from the decidedly agrarian vibe on offer in Sagae, to raucous izakaya in Yamagata City near the Shinkansen station, and from the bubbling baths of Ginzan Onsen, to the cool water lapping at Yura Beach.
My Favorite Places to Visit in Yamagata Prefecture
Sakata
Overall, I’d say Sakata is the most impressive destination in Yamagata. It’s got it all, from architecture (the Sankyo Soko Rice Storehouses), to cuisine (the city’s namesake sake; the “Snow Country” cocktail at the obscure Köln bar), to culture (Geisha performances at Somaro tea house), to nature (Yura Beach just down the coast), all in a charming setting on the Sea of Japan.
Zao Onsen
When it comes to things to do in Yamagata in winter, on the other hand, the juhyo (snow monsters) of Mt. Zao near the hot springs town of Zao Onsen definitely win out. You can also visit this place during summer (which is the only time of year when the Zao Onsen Dairotenburo, pictured in the main image, is open).
BONUS: If you’re visiting outside of winter and you have your own set of wheels, I highly recommend driving to Okama Crater in order to appreciate this almost alien landscape.
Sagae Cherry Village
By contrast, you don’t need to drive in order to reach the village of Sagae, even if having a car will make your life a lot easier. You will, however, need to make sure and visit in June, This will guarantee you’re able to enjoy the freshest sakuranbo: Sagae, you see, is one of the only places in Japan where sakura trees actually produce fruit!
Yamadera Temple
Want to take a Yamagata trip, but can’t commit to going deep into the prefecture? Not a problem! If you plan to be in Sendai, for example, you can hop onboard the local JR Senzan Line and ride to Yamadera Station. From here, you can hike up to the temple of the same name, which is a delight in all seasons.
Ginzan Onsen
Another awesome Yamagata hot spring is Ginzan Onsen, located in Obanazawa much further north than the rest of the destinations on this list. Like Zao Onsen, it’s most famous during winter; however, it’s also delightful to visit in the summertime, when the surrounding countryside produces some of Japan’s best suica, or watermelons.
Where to Base Yourself in Yamagata—and How Long to Stay
Logistically it makes most sense for people to stay in Yamagata City, which is accessible both by train (Shinkansen Tsubasa trains run direct from Tokyo Station at least once per hour) and by plane from western Japan. Yamagata-shi is also located centrally within the prefecture, which means it’s a good base for exploring, particularly if you plan to have a car.
On the other hand, Yamagata hotels (especially those in the city, mind you) leave something to be desired, and are mostly business hotels like APA and Hotel Washington. Hotels in Sakata (such as Wakaba Ryokan) aren’t necessarily better; in the onsen towns the picture is more mixed, with Zao Onsen’s mediocre but reasonably easy to reserve, and Ginzan Onsen’s (at least in winter) booking out months or even a year in advance.
Other FAQ About Visiting Japan’s Yamagata Prefecture
How many days should I spend in Yamagata?
Yamagata-ken is huge and not especially well-connected by public transportation—meaning that while it’s easy to get there without a car, getting around can be a challenge. As a result, I’d recommend a minimum of 3-5 days, unless of course you’re certainly you’ll be able to return in the future.
What is Yamagata, Japan known for?
Yamagata is known for many things, including beef, onsen hot springs and cherries. However, while it has a certain (and almost completely positive) reputation among Japanese people, the reality is that it remains pretty obscure among foreign visitors to Japan.
How do I get to Yamagata?
Te best way to reach Yamagata City (from which Zao Onsen is accessible by bus and Sagae by local train) is via the Yamagata Shinkansen. Stay on the train until Obazanawa to reach Ginzan Onsen, reachable from there by shuttle. To get to Sakata, ride the Joetsu Shinkansen and the Inaho Limited Express from there; to reach Yamadera, ride the Tohoku Shinkansen to Sendai and the JR Senzan Line from there. Alternatively, fly from Western Japan to Niigata Airport and rent a car there; this will make your life a lot easier.
The Bottom Line
Is Yamagata worth visiting? Yes, and I’d take it a step further: It’s one of my favorite parts of Japan, and certainly among the most underrated. Some people will prefer a more culture trip, be that in the historical port city of Sakata, or at Yamadera, Japan’s original “mountain temple.” Others will prefer to learn more directly into nature, be that at hot springs resorts like Ginzan Onsen and Zao Onsen, or at the Sagae Cherry Village which, in June, is one of the only places in Japan where sakura trees actually produce sakuranbo. Need personalized help incorporating Yamagata-ken into your Japan trip? Consider hiring me to plan it!
