Mie is increasingly one of my favorite parts of Japan. Whether I’m enjoying the sun shine through a field of plum trees, or watching it set behind a “floating” shrine, it’s an amazing place to get off Japan’s beaten path.
Surprisingly, for some people, it took me a couple of trips before I finally saw the prefecture’s most famous residents. Well, at least internationally: The women who free dive for pearls, often holding their breath for several minutes at a time in order to collect the ocean’s bounty.
Known in Japanese as ama, pearl divers are not a controversial topic per se, though it does remain up for debate to what extent the experience of seeing them is “authentic.” Here’s what you need to know about it.
Japan’s Pearl-Diving PR Campaign
Believe it or not, I first heard about the Mie pearl divers not while traveling in Japan (or even from Japanese friends of mine), but in a campaign by the Mie Tourism Board. It was in some big newspaper or magazine (maybe The Guardian—don’t quote me) and was so glossily produced that I almost didn’t pay it any attention. And then I saw the pictures of these women in action, and knew that I had to photograph the spectacle for myself.
It was a gamble, not unlike the casino games you can sometimes play from your own mobile device, be they classic ones like Blackjack or Poker, or more innovative ones made for the innovative. However, as I often aspire to do when I take a turn on the roulette wheel, I ended up not only enjoying the ama (in spite of them maybe not being “real”—more on that in a minute), but getting fantastic pictures. Well, I think they’re fantastic; you can be the final judge.
How to See the Ama in Japan
Get yourself to Toba
Virtually all of the ama are around the city of Toba, near the far eastern end of the Shima Peninsula. As a result, you will need to be here (rather than in “close” Mie destinations such as Tsu, Matsusaka or even Ise) if you wish to see the ama with your own eyes.
If not overnight, then on a day trip from Nagoya
Of course, you don’t necessarily need to spend the night in Mie if you want to see the Japan pearl divers, even if I think doing so is a good idea. Thanks to convenient services on both the JR Lines and Kintetsu Line, it’s reasonably easy to get to Mie for the day from Nagoya.
Visit Mikimoto Pearl Island
Just a short walk from Toba Station, Mikimoto Pearl Island is the city’s most obvious tourist attraction, whether you visit its Pearl Museum or shop for jewelry. Even if pearls aren’t your style, however, you can see an ama demonstration the main dock of the museum. It’s an especially beautiful affair if the sun is shining!
(But be mindful of the schedule)
The ama pearl divers in Japan are ubiquitous on Mikimoto Pearl Island, but they aren’t a constant presence. Specifically, they perform at set times throughout the day. I suggest that you check the timetable here before you visit to time it out, whether than waiting until after you buy your tickets and having to stand around.
Book a private ama experience
Want to see the ama in a slightly more authentic setting? While you almost won’t be able to see them harvesting pearls for commercial purposes (since that doesn’t happen anymore), private or small group tours are your best bet for seeing them on more rural parts of the peninsula. As a bonus, these experiences often include a seafood lunch cooked by the ama!
Other Things to Do in Mie Prefecture
Mie is a bit off Japan’s beaten path, but it hides great rewards for travelers who are willing to make the journey to get there:
- The city of Ise is home not only to Ise Grand Shrine, Japan’s holiest, but to the Meoto Iwa “wedded rocks,” which are one of my favorite spots for sunset anywhere in the country.
- Coming in March? Mie is home to one of Japan’s best spots for ume (plum blossom) viewing, specifically in the form of the Inabe City Agricultural Park.
- Who said Kobe is the only city in Japan for amazing beef? You can have an excellent wa-gyu lunch in Matsusaka, with virtually no crowds as you explore its old Merchant Street.
As you can see, the Japan pearl island is but the beginning of all there is to see in Mie-ken, reinforcing why you might want to spend the night instead of coming for the day from Nagoya.
Other FAQ About Japan’s Ama Pearl Divers
Are there still ama divers in Japan?
The good news? There are still ama divers in Japan, and you can still see them. The bad news? They are of limited practical utility, given that most commercially sold pearls in the country are harvested (and, more often, grown) using more modern means.
Where to see ama divers in Japan?
The most reliable place to see ama in Japan is at the Mikimoto Pearl Island in Toba City. Here, demonstrations occur several times per day when the museum is open. Alternatively, you may be able to see the ama perform in wilder stretches of sea, though this requires you to book a tour, often a private one.
How long can ama divers hold their breath?
As a general minimum, the ama can hold their breath for at least two minutes, which is how much time is required in order to reach even the shallowest places on the ocean bed where pearl-producing oysters are found. Do keep in mind, however, that many ama can hold their breath even longer than this!
The Bottom Line
Whether or not they’re authentic, the ama pearl divers offer one of the most interesting travel experiences anywhere in Japan. Some travelers will stay overnight in Toba or Ise, while others will come for the day from Nagoya. Likewise, you can choose where you want to see them: There are frequent, reliable demonstrations at Mikimoto Pearl Island; if you want to see a seemingly more “real” illustration of their prowess, you typically need to book a private tour (but, on the bright side, they may grill up seafood for you!). Need personalized help navigating off Japan’s beaten path on your next trip? Consider hiring me to plan a custom Japan itinerary!
