I’ve given Hakone many chances. In fact, as I write this, I don’t know how many times I’ve been there off the top of my head. Three? Four? Five?
Let’s be clear about another thing: I don’t “hate” Hakone, or even dislike it. As I wrote in another recent post, in fact, I do think its fundamentals as a travel destination are strong, its proximity to both Mt. Fuji and the to the Tokyo area notwithstanding.
Yet, when it comes to the big question—is Hakone worth visiting?—my answer remains ambiguous. Maybe, but definitely not yes.
I’ve Given Hakone Many Chances
Is Hakone worth it? The short answer is that I think it depends on how much space you have in your trip and what you want to achieve with it. On the other hand, I’ve gone back to Hakone many times, and at different points in my life as a traveler. And no matter how intentional or pragmatic I’ve tried to be, the reality of traveling in the city and surrounding region always slaps me in the face: Hakone is a hard place to enjoy fully.
Now, with this being said, I always find something to enjoy about my trip. Did I love sitting in traffic for over an hour driving up to Owakudani last time? No. But the autumn colors at full brilliance everywhere I went softened the blow. Likewise, although the non-existent visibility of Fujisan put a damper on my very first trip, the relatively bad weather meant that the place simply wasn’t crowded, allowing me to mope and moan in relative peace and quiet.
5 Things I Dislike About Hakone
The crowds
I’m not a big believer in the concept of “overtourism,” broadly speaking. With this being said, Hakone definitely hosts more tourists than it was designed to hold, which is evident basically everywhere in town you go. It’s distracting, and ironic, for a destination that exists (at least in part) to be an escape from the big city.
The traffic
I often rent cars in Japan, and self-drove the last time I was in Hakone. So while I might well have found Hakone worth visiting had I taken the cable car to the Owakudani thermal field, sitting in a line of cars for more than an hour definitely soured me on the experience. I’ve honestly never seen traffic like Hakone’s anywhere else in Japan.
The prices
Japan is generally cheaper than it’s ever been, in spite of the ongoing tourism boom. The yen is persistently weak, and because there were decades of price deflation in Japan (before the recent, relatively modest inflation), your money goes a long way—in most places. Hakone is unfortunately an exception to this rule, especially in the case of accommodation.
The types of visitors
Hakone, I jotted down in my “Notes” app while on my latest trip, is where unadventurous rich people go to feel adventurous. I also remarked about how many of them were dressed as if they were about to climb Mt. Everest, in spite of the fact that all of us were literally walking on pavement. A cynical assessment? Maybe. But not at all an inaccurate one.
The distance from Mt. Fuji
Much hay is make of Hakone’s utility as a place for seeing Mt. Fuji, but unless the weather is very clear, you aren’t going to see the mountain, at least not very sharply—it’s simply not all that nearby. More often than not you’ll see pieces of Fujisan peaking out through clouds from Lake Ashi or Owakundani, or none of it at all.
Where to Go Instead of Hakone
Feeling ambivalent about visiting Hakone? Don’t go! Instead, consider one of these alternatives:
- For amazing views of Mt. Fuji, choosing destination in the Fuji Five Lakes region, such as Lakes Kawaguchi and Yamanaka.
- Hot springs towns are a dime a dozen in Japan, from Kinosaki Onsen near Kyoto and Osaka, to Kusatsu Onsen in Gunma north of Tokyo, to Kaga Onsen in the Hokuriku region.
- For amazing hiking without so many crowds, consider a day trip to the Chuo Alps from Matsumoto, or doing the Kumano Kudo pilgrimage in Wakayama prefecture.
Other FAQ About Visiting Hakone
Is it worth visiting Hakone in Japan?
Hakone is definitely worth visiting for certain types of travelers, mostly because of its proximity to Tokyo, as well as how easily accessible it makes Japan’s onsen culture. However, Hakone is crowded and expensive, and the ease of viewing Mt. Fuji from the town is overstated.
What is so special about Hakone?
Generations of Tokyoites have loved going to Hakone for the cool weather and fresh air, for the abundance of hot springs and for views of Mt. Fuji in the distance. In my opinion, however, all of these positives are overhyped, and not enough valid criticism about Hakone is present in conversations about it.
Is Hakone overpriced?
Hakone has definitely gotten more expensive in recent years, even as the Japanese yen remains weak, and Japan as a whole becomes more affordable. Prices for hotels in particular are high, with even old and poorly maintained inns costing a minimum of ¥10,000 per person, per night for double occupancy. If you want to stay in a four- or five-star accommodation in Hakone, you should be prepared to pay for the privilege.
The Bottom Line
Is Hakone worth visiting? Certainly, I have my fair share of criticisms about the destination, from how crowded it is, to the sorts of tourists who visit, to high prices for hotels and frankly, the extent to which its convenience and proximity to Mt. Fuji is overstated. On the other hand, I can’t pretend that Hakone is a “bad” place, or that there are no merits to visiting it. Even if you simply take a day trip from Tokyo to the Hakone Open Air Museum, there’s an argument that the journey (as stressful as it might prove to be) could end up being worthwhile. Regardless, whether you want someone else to make this decision for you, or are looking for expert tips in a broader sense, I do hope you’ll consider hiring me to plan your trip to Japan.
