I took my first stab at writing a Hiroshima travel guide over a decade ago, when my maiden voyage to the city left me less than impressed. Back then, I was dismissive and cocky, and also wrote in a way that was strangely…final. I didn’t see myself ever returning to the city, let alone to broader Hiroshima prefecture.
Since then, of course, Hiroshima (in both the urban areas of Hiroshima-shi and the wilder reaches of Hiroshima-ken) has become one of my favorite places in Japan. I come back here at least every other year, whether to re-visit familiar haunts in the city center or on Miyajima island, or to discover spots that (yes, even after a decade) are new to me.
With my new-and-improved Hiroshima itinerary, I am not only to tell you about my change of heart, but to show you how you can get Japan’s most misunderstood destination right—the first time.
Where to Stay in Hiroshima
When it comes to Hiroshima hotels, you have a few options. My M.O., on most trips, is to stay near Hiroshima Station. On the low end, you have properties like Sotetsu Fresa Inn Hiroshima; the Hotel Granvia Hiroshima South Gate feels a bit more upmarket. Alternatively, if local attractions are more important to you than convenience, hotels like The Knot Hiroshima (which is just steps from Hiroshima’s World War II-era sites) is probably a better choice.
Now, is it better to stay in Hiroshima or Miyajima? On one hand, choosing a Miyajima ryokan like Jukeiso allows you to experience evening and morning on the island without hordes of day-trippers. On the other hand, Miyajima goes dark at night, literally and figuratively. You can’t wonder out at midnight for okonomiyaki, let alone to buy snacks at a convenience store.
Top Things to Do in Hiroshima
Pay your respects at Ground Zero
I remember leaving the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum back in 2014 feeling both confused and sad—confused, because I wasn’t sure why Americans my age (in other words, ones born almost half a century after the bombs were dropped) were loudly expressing sentiments of guilt and shame; and sad because I wished I’d felt more guilty and ashamed myself. In spite of this, I do feel like visiting the sites (the museum, as well as the Flame of Peace and the Atomic Bomb Dome) is important, if only because of how starkly they contrast with the rest of Hiroshima, which has flourished so profoundly that you’d never know anything happened here, I mean if you didn’t already know.
(But don’t skip Hiroshima Castle or Shukkei-en garden)
Indeed, the next steps on my Hiroshima itinerary immediately reflect the extent to which the city has transcended its past. This is quite literal in the case of Hiroshima Castle which, in spite of obviously not being one of Japan’s 12 original castles, is home to a eucalyptus free that survived the bombing. From here, you can either set your GPS for Shin-Hakushima Station (where you’ll continue westward on the JR Sanyo Line) or to Shukkei-en, a hidden-in-plain-sight landscape garden that’s a perfect waypoint en route back to Hiroshima Station.
TIP: No matter which train station you end up at, I suggest finding your nearest okonomiyaki restaurant, where you can enjoy Hiroshima’s version (Osaka’s is the main competing one) of this famous savory pancake, which is far and away the beating heart of the city’s culinary identity.
Give Miyajima the time it deserves
Miyajima is an absolutely massive island, and while I don’t except that you will see “all of it” on an excursion from the city, I do think it’s worth staying at least half a day there. This will allow you not only to center Itsukushima Shrine and its famous “floating” torii gate, but also to enjoy some grilled oysters and to-go cocktails along Miyajima Omotesando street, and to visit sacred sites like Daisho-in temple and the Taho-to pagoda. You may also choose to ride the Miyajima Ropeway up to Mt. Misen.
Take a day trip to Onomichi or Kintai Bridge
What to do in Hiroshima—the city center, I mean—notwithstanding, it’s a great base for day trips, both within and outside of Hiroshima prefecture. In the former category you have Onomichi, a harbor city with amazing views, ancient temples and a special local kind of ramen. If you head in the opposite direction (westward, this is), you can instead visit Kintaikyo, a 300-year old wooden bridge that’s technically located in underrated Yamaguchi prefecture, but is very worthy of a day trip from Hiroshima.
(And—maybe—cycle onto the Shimanami Kaido)
Speaking of bridges, the modern ones that straddle the Seto Inland Sea connecting Onomichi with the city of Imabari, on Shikoku island, are nothing short of spectacular. This is especially true if you see them while biking the Shimanami Kaido, a cycling route that often overlaps with the sophisticated over-water expressway network. While it’s true that this would be very difficult to do as a day trip (you’ll almost certainly need to rent an e-bike in Onomichi, rather than an ordinary one), I have personally done it as such and can confirm that it is technically possible.
How Long Do You Need in Hiroshima?
The good news? I’ve written a separate article on the topic of how many days in Hiroshima you should spend. The better news? I’ll be summarizing it below in case you’re short on time, though I will tell you: The full thing is worth reading. The tl;dr version is that while you can explore Hiroshima’s city center in one full day (or even less), you need longer in this corner of Japan than you’ll think.
And I’m not just talking about the extra time required to give Miyajima its due, even if that usually pushes trips into the 2+ days period. Rather, Hiroshima is a fantastic base not only for destinations technically within Hiroshima prefecture (aforementioned Onomichi comes to mind), but for the rest of western Honshu (namely, Yamaguchi and even Okayama prefecture), and potentially even Fukuoka if you don’t think you’ll have time to devote to exploring Kyushu.
Other FAQ About Visiting Hiroshima
Is Hiroshima worth visiting?
Hiroshima is absolutely worth visiting! However, I recommend getting informed—and inspired!—before your trip to make sure you don’t leave disappointed. Ideally, you’ll understand both that Hiroshima is so much more than its tragic history, but also that a trip there is best if you spend as much time in destinations outside the city center as you do within the urban core itself.
Can I visit Hiroshima on a day trip from Tokyo?
Technically-speaking, you can visit Hiroshima on a day trip from Tokyo. Start by riding the first Nozomi Shinkansen of the day from Tokyo or Shinagawa Stations to Hiroshima Station and, after having an okonomiyaki lunch nearby, riding a streetcar to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. Walk from here up to the Atomic Bomb Dome and then, via Hiroshima Castle to Shin-Hakushima Station. If you’re very fast, you may be able to nest in a very quick visit to Miyajima islands; otherwise, simply take the JR Sanyo Line back to Hiroshima Station, and get another Nozomi Shinkansen from there back to Tokyo.
Is Hiroshima still radioactive?
Radioactivity from the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima significantly dissipated almost immediately; these days, more than 80 years later, it is not even detectable. Still, while you won’t suffer any nuclear consequences from visiting Hiroshima, a trip to the city reminds of us why a world without nuclear weapons is the best long-term option for humanity.
The Bottom Line
I hope—and trust—that my Hiroshima travel guide has proven helpful. If you visit the city without any kind of preparation, you’re likely to leave as I did back in 2014: Apathetic to the terror that took place decades before you were born, and incurious about what other treasures may lie obscured in the shadow of it. Thankfully, if you’ve managed to read my Hiroshima itinerary before you take your own trip, my insights to both Hiroshima’s urban core and the rural reaches of Hiroshima prefecture will have set you on the right foot before you even step out of Hiroshima Station. Need more individualized assistance planning the perfect trip? Commission a custom Japan itinerary today!
