I never shut up about Shikoku—I am fully aware of this. The smallest of Japan’s four main islands has a huge place in my heart, and I will never apologize for that.
Instead, I will evangelize: I want you to discover Shikoku as soon as you can. And ideally, before the rest of the world finds out about it.
Actually, there’s not a huge danger of that. Without a Shinkansen connection, and with questionable transportation more broadly, Shikoku will never join Japan’s tourist trail. On the other hand, if you’re willing to take a Shikoku road trip, you can discover destinations and experiences you never thought existed in Japan.
Getting Around in Shikoku is Cumbersome
Part of the reason I decided to write a dedicated Shikoku road trip itinerary now, more than eight years after I first visited the island, is that it’s fresh in my mind. Specifically, I just spent several days driving in rural Kochi prefecture, which reminded me of how much having your own set of wheels enhances travel here. However, my motivations are not entirely based on personal experience.
Indeed, the reality of traveling Shikoku is that beyond the lack of bullet train stops (and the fact that only one rail bridge connects the island to Honshu at all), transportation here just leaves a lot to be desired. Limited Express trains between major cities travel once an hour at most; reaching rural and suburban destinations requires the use of even less frequent local buses, assuming it’s even possible at all—it often isn’t.
Shikoku Road Trip Ideas
Road trips from Tokushima
Tokushima has plenty to discover on foot within its city center, but having a car unlocks many exciting destinations nearby. You could visit the otherworldly Naruto Whirlpools, or even continue from there to Awaji Island. Alternatively, you could drive inland, via the indigo-producing town of Udatsu into the Iya Valley.
Road trips from Kochi
Another way to explore Shikoku by car is to start in the south, specifically the city of Kochi. As is the case in Tokushima, you can take a more coastal route (Capes Muroto and Ashizuri) or head inland, be it to the crystalline Shimanto River, or colorful Nikobuchi waterfall (and, in spring, the Hikichi Bridge peach grove).
Road trips from Matsuyama
Matsuyama is Shikoku’s largest city, and also its least convenient in terms of transportation. Having a car is especially helpful here, whether you head down the coast to the castle towns of Ozu and Uwajima, or even to Yawatahama, where you can take a ferry over to Kyushu island.
Road trips from Takamatsu
There are also plenty of Shikoku road trips from Takamatsu. These include evergreen destinations like Marugame Castle and Kotohira-gu shrine, sunset spots like Takaya Shrine and Chichibugahama beach and Mt. Shiude, which offers a spectacular view of the Seto Inland Sea during sakura season.
Iya Valley road trips
The Iya Valley, broadly speaking, is the hardest part of Shikoku to explore without a car. This is true even for mainstream destinations like the Kazurabashi “vine” bridge and Oboke Gorge, but even more so for some of the hiking routes in the valley, which are all but inaccessible without a car.
What to Know About Renting a Car and Driving in Shikoku
As is the case with renting a car in Japan more broadly, doing so in Shikoku is very straightforward. You’ll need an international driving permit, and to book the car at least a day in advance. I personally always rent from Toyota Rent-a-car when I can, but you can also choose reputable companies like Nippon Rent-a-car or Orix Rent-a-car. You should make sure to get the full coverage insurance package, as well as an ETC card for tolls.
In terms of driving and how it relates to your Shikoku road trip itinerary, keep in mind that speed limits in Japan are slow, and people often drive below them. The amount of time Google Maps tells you it will take to get between Point A and Point B might not fully account for this. On the other hand, Shikoku’s low population means you’ll often have the road to yourself, allowing for one of Japan’s most tranquil driving experiences.
Other FAQ About Driving Around Shikoku
Do you need a car in Shikoku?
You don’t “need” a car in Shikoku, but having one will allow you to explore destinations outside of major cities much more easily. This is especially true in inland Shikoku (such as the Iya Valley), as well as coastal destinations like Kochi’s Cape Ashizuri, and Takaya-jinja shrine in Kagawa prefecture.
Is it safe to drive in Shikoku?
Shikoku, like the rest of Japan, is extremely safe for driving. Speed limits are low and people obey them; in many places, there are so few cars on the road in the first place that there is basically no chance for you to have an accident.
Are there trains on Shikoku?
There are trains on Shikoku, from Limited Express lines that speedily connect major cites like Tokushima and Takamatsu, to local trains that string together all the stations in-between. However, no Shinkansen bullet train travels anywhere on Shikoku, which makes it the least convenient of Japan’s four main islands.
The Bottom Line
A Shikoku road trip can serve both practical and esoteric purposes. Practically speaking, Shikoku’s train and bus network is relatively barebones by Japanese standards; having your own set of wheels allows you to disregard it entirely. Esoterically, being able to explore Shikoku freely allows you to access places that feel like somewhere out of a dream, from perfect, pastel peach groves in Kochi, to strange whirlpools in Tokushima; and from obscure castles in Ehime, to out-of-this-world sunset spots in Kagawa. Want to take your Shikoku trip to the next level? Consider hiring me to plan a custom Japan itinerary for you!
