For first-time visitors to Japan especially, the vermillion gates of Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari Shrine are a must-visit. They might just be the single-most iconic destination in the country!
As you explore the country more, however, you’ll realize that such gates aren’t entirely uncommon. Most aren’t as dramatic as the ones you find in southeastern Kyoto, with thousands of them strung up the side of a mountain like pearls.
A notable exception to this rule is Yamaguchi prefecture’s Motonosumi Shrine. While it doesn’t have as many torii as Fushimi Inari, the seaside setting is nothing short of jaw-dropping.
How I Discovered Motonosumi Inari
While I wasn’t specifically searching for alternative to Fushimi Inari in 2019, as I was planning what ended up being my first visit to Motonosumi Shrine, I wasn’t disappointed when I saw a picture of dozens of gates along the sea. I also wasn’t sure where they were, however. Thankfully, Google reverse-image search was almost as good back then as it is now.
As luck would have it, this particular shrine was in San’in, a part of Japan I’d be targeting anyway. That’s the good news. The bad news? Motonosumi Inari is pretty inconvenient to major San’in cities like Tottori and Matsue, and not particularly convenient to most of Yamaguchi prefecture, which is where it’s technically located. Allow me to explain more below.
How to Reach Motonosumi Shrine
Get yourself to Yamaguchi prefecture
If you aren’t already exploring far western Japan, the easiest access points for Yamaguchi prefecture are the Shinkansen hubs of Shin-Shimonoseki and Shin-Yamaguchi, though you should note that these are only served using slower Kodama trains. Alternatively, you can fly from Tokyo (HND) to Iwakuni (IWK) or Yamaguchi-Ube (UBJ) airports.
And then to Nagato city
The next step of visiting the red gates by the sea is getting to the seaside city of Nagato. The slightly bad news is that Nagato isn’t especially well-connected, at least not via public transportation. You can reach Nagatoshi Station only via the local Sanin Main Line and Mine Line (the latter of which, at least ostensibly, is connected via Shinkansen, albeit the Kodama Shinkansen, to Asa Station).
Plan on renting a car
Unfortunately, if you plan to travel as close as you can to the shrine via train, you won’t need to get to Nagatoshi Station—more on the correct station in a second. Indeed, I simply recommend renting a car proactively (likely in Shimonoseki or Yamaguchi City), in order to avoid an expensive taxi ride or a long walk.
(Or hiring a taxi)
Seeing Fushimi Inari on the ocean without a car requires you to spend about 15-20 minutes in a taxi from Nagato-Furuichi Station, which is about an hour by foot (along a pedestrian-unfriendly road, do be aware) from the shrine. As a result, hiring a taxi at the station is the best plan. Well, at least assuming any are available—this isn’t always the case.
(Or booking an organized tour)
A final way to visit Motonosumi Inari—which, if you don’t want to rent a car, is probably the most foolproof—is to book an organized tour. This tour, for example, departs from Fukuoka, and also includes stops elsewhere in Yamaguchi-ken to make the day worth your while. I’d probably prefer having my own set of wheels, but if you don’t, a tour is the next-best option.
Other Things to Do in Yamaguchi Prefecture
As I’ve written about basically ad-nauseum, Yamguchi-ken is one of my favorite parts of Japan. Here’s what to do there, besides visiting Motonosumi Shrine:
- Hagi: This town is probably Japan’s best-preserved Samurai district, and has basically no tourists either.
- Akiyoshido: I’m not generally a big cave person, but this one is well-outfitted enough that you don’t have to spelunk to sightseeing.
- Karato Market: Though not the only place worth seeing in Shimonoseki city, it is nonetheless one of my favorite seafood markets in Japan.
- Tsuwano: A charming town deep in the mountains with sewers so clean that koi swim through them. What’s not to love?
- Kintai Bridge: While I wouldn’t necessarily recommend against visiting this ancient bridge outside the first week of April, it’s most famous for its sakura.
&nsp;
Other FAQ About Japan’s Motonosumi Shrine
How do you get to the Motonosumi Shrine?
Motonosumi Shrine is easy to reach, but it is a bit tedious. The easiest way is to take a Shinkansen to Shin-Yamaguchi or Shin-Shimonoseki, then rent a car and drive. However, you can also take the San’in Main Line to Nagato-Furuichi Station and either walk or take a taxi from there.
What is the history of the Motonosumi Shrine?
Although it appears to be an ancient structure, Motonosumi Inari only dates back to 1955, when it’s said that a fox spirit inspired a local architect to build it. In spite of this, it certain feels and looks like someplace out of a traditional Japanese painting.
Is Motonosumi Shrine worth visiting?
Motonosumi Shrine is absolutely worth visiting, at least if you aren’t plan to be in that part of Japan. Conversely, I’m not sure I’d recommend coming all the way from Tokyo or even Osaka to here, unless you plan to explore other places in the San’in region.
The Bottom Line
Objectively speaking, Motonosumi Shrine is one of the most beautiful places in Japan. It’s ~120 red gates are perched above the Sea of Japan in Yamaguchi prefecture, and quite literally look like something out of a Studio Ghibli movie. At the same time, it’s sort of a pain to get here, particularly if you’re opposed to renting a car. Even from the cities of Yamaguchi or Shimonoseki, you’re looking at a journey of at least a couple hours each way en route. The good news? Yamaguchi-ken is a travel treasure trove, so you can make a day of it. The better news? When you hire me to plan your Japan trip, I’ll take it to another level entirely.
