As you’ll know if you read this blog with any regularity, I am not the biggest fan of Hakone. Actually, that’s not true—I think Hakone’s fundamentals, as a destination are excellent; it’s just typically too crowded to enjoy.
Indeed, the fact remains that whether you’re looking for amazing Fuji views, to walk around an onsen town in yukata and geta, or simply want to soothe your aching body in a hot spring, there are better places to go—and not just in the vicinity of Tokyo if location is not a consideration.
Below, I’ll present some alternatives to Hakone, and explain in which situations each makes sense. I’ll warn you, however, that my post may be controversial to some!
Hakone, Hot Springs and All, Continues to Leave Me Cold
I came up with the idea of a post about where to go besides Hakone on my last trip to the town, which should tell you most of what you need to know. While I enjoyed many aspect of this visit, I found myself annoyed by at least as many. These included the very high price I paid for my spartan “ryokan,” and the fact that so many of the people around me at any given time were obnoxious trust-fund kids (sorry to my friends with rich parents who are reading this—I still love you!).
Look, with every place you go (and not just in Japan), it’s about balance, and specifically whether the positives balance out the negatives. Hakone has a lot of things going for it, and if the stars happen to align when you go (i.e. you go during the dead of winter, or on a day when bad weather was forecast but the sun ends up shining), you might enjoy your trip more than expected. But in my relatively vast experience, this is not usually the case.
Where to Go Besides Hakone
Fuji Five Lakes
If your priority is Fujisan views, then you frankly need to get closer to the mountain. Specifically, the Fuji Five Lakes region, out of which two lakes (Kawaguchi and Yamanaka, in that order) are the most popular and easy to access. Even if the weather is less than ideal, you have a much higher chance of seeing the mountain the closer you get to it.
Kusatsu Onsen
For those seeking onsen town vibes without all the day trippers, my first option for where to go instead of Hakone is Gunma prefecture’s Kusatsu Onsen. While obviously not as convenient to Tokyo as Hakone, I love this town for how walkable its center (whose focus is the unique Yubatake thermal feature) is, and the quality of ryokan there.
Kaga Onsen
What if Kusatsu Onsen sounds good to you, but a bit too isolated? Then fear not. While Ishikawa prefecture’s Kaga Onsen is a bit more spread out—you’ll need to choose whether you want to stay in more built-up Yamashiro Onsen, or in more rustic Yamanaka Onsen—it’s right down the Hokuriku Shinkansen line from Kanazawa, Fukui and Toyama.
Takaragawa Onsen
Hakone has many decent onsen hotels, but very few fantastic outdoor onsen. If that’s what you’re after, then I can’t think of a better alternative to Hakone than Takaragawa Onsen, which like Kusatsu is in Gunma prefecture. If you don’t stay at the hotel itself, you can base yourself in nearby Minakami town, itself a great hot springs destination.
Oku-Nikko
The most disappointing part about my latest visit to Hakone? Whether along the shores of Lake Ashi or amid the volcanic vents of Owakudani, natural areas were absolutely swamped. While the lower areas of Nikko north of Tokyo are definitely also crowded, the same cannot be said for the Oku-Nikko area along the shores of Lake Chuzenji.
Why You Should Still Visit Hakone (if You Haven’t Been)
As I’ve tried to highlight throughout this post, Hakone is still worth visiting overall. Here are some of my favorite things to do there:
- Day spas around Hakone-yumoto Station are an easy way to dip into Japan’s onsen culture, if you’ve never experienced.
- Whether from the Owakudani thermal area or from Moto-Hakone on the southern shores of Lake Ashi, your chances of seeing Mt. Fuji on a clear day are relatively high.
- The Hakone Open Air Museum, while overpriced and overcrowded, is one of the most unique art museums anywhere in Japan.
- If you book in advance or simply get a good deal, some of the onsen hotels in and around Hakone are fabulous (even if many of them are overpriced and poorly-maintained).
In other words, even if you end up preferring a different onsen besides Hakone (and I certainly do), you can still enjoy a trip to Hakone, particularly if you come for the day from Tokyo.
Other FAQ About Alternatives to Hakone
Is Hakone or Lake Kawaguchi better?
For Mt. Fuji views alone, Lake Kawaguchi beats Hakone by an order of magnitude. On the other hand, Hakone is closer to Tokyo and easier to do on a day trip, and there are simply more hotels and ryokan on offer there for overnight visitors than there are in the entire Fuji Five Lakes region.
Is it better to stay in Hakone or do a day trip?
If you can find a highly-rated ryokan or hotel at a price you are willing to pay, staying overnight in Hakone will allow you to experience the town’s attractions with more breathing room. Otherwise, it’s perfectly easy to take a day trip to Hakone, whether directly from Shinjuku on the Odakyu Line, or via Shinkansen from central Tokyo to Odawara and the Hakonetozan Line from there.
Should I stay in Hakone or Fuji?
If getting clear, crisp views of Mt. Fuji is your primary motivation, I recommend staying in one of the towns in the Fuji Five Lakes region, be that Kawaguchiko or Yamanakako, or Fujiyoshida. On the other hand, Hakone offers a more eclectic range of travel experiences, even if it’s significantly more crowded.
The Bottom Line
I hope you find my suggestions for alternatives to Hakone useful (and not offensive). Want to see Mt. Fuji much closer than you can from the shores of Lake Ashi? Head instead to Lakes Kawaguchi and Yamanaka, which are much closer to the mountain than Hakone is. Likewise, onsen towns like Kaga and Kusatsu simply offer a more relaxed experience for hot spring lovers, while Nikko’s scenery (especially that in Oku-Nikko) is generally superior to what exists in Hakone. Want personalized help curating an experience that, if necessary, can replace the space Hakone might’ve filled for you? Hire me to plan a custom Japan itinerary for you!
