I always regretted not visiting Kesennuma back in June of 2024, when I took my first “big” trip along the Sanriku Coast. I’d actually planned to sleep two nights there, but for reasons I can’t remember, I recalibrated my itinerary; Kesennuma disappeared from it entirely.
Thankfully for me, no other creator seems to have put the city on their travel radar. In fact, during my recent visit there, I only saw one other foreign traveler the entire time.
Part of me want to keep all my favorite things to do in Kesennuma to myself—why reveal such a well-kept secret to the world? The other part of me, however, wants you to feel everything I did as I explored this underrated gem for the first time.
Where to Stay in Kesennuma
As you might guess, quantity tends to be the main issue when it comes to Kesennuma hotels, though quality can be a problem as well. When I first thought I might stay there, I’d been planning to stay at Hotel Route Inn Kesennuma Chuo Inter. Like other Route Inn properties, this hotel wins for ample parking, a location a bit outside of town (making it deal for people who are self-driving) and free breakfast.
When I plotted my return trip, I knew I wanted to stay somewhere “better.” While nowhere on the level of the Jodogahama Park Hotel (further north in Miyako) exists in Kesennuma, I wanted a place as similar to it as possible. If this is the situation that you find yourself in, I highly recommend the Kesennuma Plaza Hotel, whose outdoor onsen offers views that are worth the price of the stay all on their own.
What to Do in Kesennuma
See it all from above
If I’m honest, the views of Kesennuma that have left me most fascinated are ones looking in on the city from the sea, as you see when you’re driving the expressway. Unfortunately, at least as of now, I haven’t found a place to safety photograph those. Thankfully, the perspective looking outward toward the sea isn’t half-bad; you’re very unlikely be involved in a crash driving up to to the Anbasan viewpoint.
Admire the weeping cherry of Denpo-ji
Moving on in our Kesennuma itinerary, you likewise aren’t likely to face any mortal difficulty driving to Denpo-ji, nor as there likely to be any crowds there, even if its shidarezakura specimen is in full bloom. What you do need to be vigilant of, however, is just how narrow and winding the roads are. I’m not even sure they are meant for cars!
Savor local seafood
Thankfully, once you finish at Anbasan and Denpo-ji, you can set your GPS for a place with a huge and accommodating parking lot: Kesennuma City Fish Market. Whether or not you go there in the morning (when fish trading takes place), you can have a delicious seafood meal. I personally max out at mekajiki (swordfish), though some people will also eat same, or shark.
Visit the Shark Museum
Now, I don’t want to judge the people of Kesennuma too harshly, given how they suffered during the 2011 tsunami. I’m not a fan of shark fishing, to be clear; but this industry has been disproportionately responsible for the city’s economic recovery. If you want to learn more about sharks without contributing directly to their slaughter, visit the Shark Museum, which is conveniently in the same building as the Fish Market.
Explore the rest of the Sanriku Coast
Finished in Kesennuma and lost on what to do? In a riveting region like the Sanriku Coast, this definitely shouldn’t be the case. You can head northward to the gorgeous Goishi Coast, and even all the way northward to Miyako and Jodogahama Beach. Or instead go stop, stopping at Ishinomaki (and maybe even taking a ferry over to Tashirojima island) on your way down to Sendai.
How Long Should You Stay in Kesennuma?
Kesennuma isn’t a big city, and is a place you’re unlikely to visit all on its own. As a result, it’s difficult to talk about the prospective length of an à la carte trip, since this isn’t the format that Kesennuma usually takes within a larger Japan itinerary. What I will do is explain my own strategy, both the planned one on my first trip, as well as the one I actually executed when I finally made it to Kesennuma.
If you are including the city as a stop along the Sanriku Coast, as I initially planned to do, 1-2 nights (with one full day of sightseeing in Kesennuma-proper) is probably the correct answer to how many days in Kesennuma you should spend. Alternatively, if you’re basing yourself elsewhere in Miyagi prefecture (such as in Ishinomaki or even Sendai), you can simply plan on doing a day trip, which will last as close to one full day as possible.
Other FAQ About Visiting Kesennuma
Is Kesennuma worth visiting?
Kesennuma is absolutely worth visiting! It’s a picturesque harbor city with a delicious seafood market, gorgeous views in all directions and amazing seasonal displays, particularly during cherry blossom season. On the flip side, there simply aren’t that many tourists here, even during times of year that are busy in other destinations, so it’s sort of a perfect spot.
Why is Kesennuma famous?
Sadly, most of Kesennuma’s fame (or infamy) results from how badly impacted it was by the 2011 tsunami. It wasn’t very popular as a destination even before that, and has struggled to gain back what tourism it had before then. It’s for that this reason that people here seem especially grateful to see new faces, even if you don’t speak a lot of Japanese or don’t have a set agenda.
How do I get from Tokyo to Kesennuma?
The most direct way to get from Tokyo to Kesennuma is to ride a Shinkansen from Tokyo Station to Ichinoseki Station, and then get a JR Ofunato Line train from there to Kesennuma Station. In the best-case scenario this is about a four-hour journey one-way, which means you’ll want to stay overnight if you’re coming all the way from Tokyo.
The Bottom Line
On paper, my favorite things to do in Kesennuma are not especially unique. Take in a view of the city from on high; have a meal at the seafood market; and, in springtime, enjoy some cherry blossoms. The thing about this city is that it’s more than the sum of its parts. It’s also not enjoyable only because of how few foreign tourists go there, although I can’t pretend that this isn’t a contributing factor. No matter why you end up heading there, I can’t recommend highly enough that you visit Kesennuma on your next trip to Japan’s Sanriku Coast. Need personalized help integrating it into your adventure? Commission a custom Japan itinerary today!
