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Japan’s Castle(s) in the Clouds

As a photographer, getting the right shot in Japan is often equal parts coordination and luck. A great example of this is Chureito Pagoda, near the base of Mt. Fuji. To get my “postcard picture,” I not only had to time my visit to cherry blossoms’ full bloom, but also had to ensure I was going on a day with a perfectly clear sky.

The good news? I eventually got the shot. The not-as-good news? It took me a whopping seven years of effort, and multiple visits to get it just right.

Thankfully, seeing the sea of clouds in Japan (unkai), whether to capture the Japanese “castle in the clouds” phenomenon or simply to enjoy the natural beauty, does not require nearly as much luck. You definitely still need some coordination, however.

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Understanding Unkai

In order to see the Japan castle in the clouds, you have to make sure you’re there when the “Sea of Clouds” (known in Japanese as unkai) is present. Unkai is essentially a phenomenon whereby valleys are filled with fog; since you’ll be seeing the castles from a viewpoint, however, conditions above a certain height will need to be clear. At both Takeda and Bitchu-Matsuyama castles, this tends to be most common during the autumn; you also need to go at the crack of dawn.

Now, in spite of this, unkai is never guaranteed—like a trip to the casino, winning is down as much to your skill and preparation as it is to odds and luck. Additionally, it will be clear from the get-go whether or not you can expect to see the “Sea of Clouds.” It generally doesn’t develop after sunrise on a clear day. Rather, if you get to the viewpoint and unkai isn’t present, you will need to come back another day to see it.

 

How to See the Sea of Clouds in Japan

Pick the unkai that’s closest to you

For most travelers, a spot like Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle is an easily accessible unkai spot, given that it’s near the city of Okayama (which is a major Shinkansen hub, and right between Kyoto/Osaka and Hiroshima). Other popular options, like Kyushu’s Mt. Aso caldera and Hyogo’s Takeda Castle ruins, are much less convenient.

Plan on renting a car

To be sure, while you can technically reach Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle by public transportation from Okayama, in order to many manifestations of the sea of clouds in Japan, it’s really best to rent a car. This is especially the cases in more natural settings, such as near the Iya Valley on Shikoku island.

Find the best viewpoint

As I mentioned above, you will need to go to a viewpoint (展望台 or tenbōdai in Japanese) in order to marvel at the unkai, particular if you want to see a Japanese castle in the context of it. You can click here for Google Maps directions to the Bitchu-Matsuyama viewpoint, or here for the Takeda one.

Visit during the right time of year

The Japanese sea of clouds phenomenon is relatively rare—it’s far from a 365-day-per-year occurrence. Specifically, autumn is your best bet, within the weeks just before or after the first of November the most reliable. I usually choose the weeks after, as these align with peak autumn colors. However, spring can also be a good option if you see it at Mt. Aso in Kyushu.

Stay until the right time of morning

Sunrise is key to enjoying unkai, as this is when light begins coming over the horizon to illuminate the scene. For the most beautiful pictures, however, stay until (or arrive after) the listed time by around an hour. This will ensure that bright sunshine hits everything, offering contrast with the clouds—and ensuring you can use a faster shutter speed for less blur!

 

Where in Japan to Enjoy the Sea of Clouds

I’ve referenced various spots to see unkai within this article, but here, I want to specifically outline them:

  • For my money (and time), Bitchu Matsuyama Castle in Okayama prefecture is the best place in Japan to see the sea of clouds—it’s one of just 12 remaining “original” castles in Japan.
  • The Takeda Castle Ruins in Hyogo prefecture near Himeji are also beautiful but…well, ruined. They’re also remote enough that a car is the only realistic way to see them.
  • If you’re OK with driving, but will be further south, the Mt. Aso caldera in Kyushu fills with seas of clouds not only in the autumn, but also in the spring.
  • Likewise, you can also pretty easily see unkai during various time of the year in Shikoku island’s underrated Iya Valley.
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Other FAQ About Japan’s Sea of Clouds

Is Takeda Castle worth visiting?

Takeda Castle is worth visiting in certain situations, namely if you look over and down on it from its observation deck during autumn, when the unkai or sea of clouds is swirling around it. However, since Takeda-jo is in ruins and is not an “original” Japanese castle, it’s not especially interesting to visit on an ordinary day and in a normal context.

What is the sea of clouds in Japanese?

The sea of clouds phenomenon is known as 雲海 (unkai) in the Japanese language. It tends to occur in autumn (and, in some cases, spring) when a combination of humidity and warmth causes valleys and gorges to fill with fog, while the sky at the level of the mountain peaks around them stays clear.

Where can I see the sea of clouds in Japan?

The most popular places to see the sea of clouds phenomenon in Japan are both castles: Okayama’s Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle, which is one Japan’s remaining 12 “original” castles; and Takeda Castle (which is in ruins) in Hyogo prefecture not far from the city of Kobe.

The Bottom Line

Photographing the sea of clouds in Japan requires both coordination and luck. Step one? Deciding where you want to see it. Some people prefer the nature-only context of the Mt. Aso caldera in Kyushu, while others like castles, with my favorite of the latter being Okayama‘s Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle, one of Japan’s 12 remaining “original” castles. The second step is visiting during the time(s) of year when the unkai (sea of clouds) is likely to appear. Beyond these factors, you’ll want to be mindful of lighting, camera settings and even the lens you use, though these aspects are easier by comparison. Need personalized help with your next trip to Japan? Considering hiring me to plan it!

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