My first attempt at traveling from Sendai to Yamadera was an abject failure. It was early February, and I was in the area for a long weekend from Kyoto, where I was studying Japanese at the time.
Anyway, I arrived to the temple to find it closed—at the time, I assumed this was because of the fact that the steps leading up to it were covered in ice. I took some pictures from ground level and vowed to come back one day.
The good news? I made good on my promise to come back—many times. The bad news? My assumption about the reason Yamadera was inaccessible had been wrong.
Why is Yamadera Famous?
Whether you plan to travel from Tokyo to Yamadera or make the shorter journey from Sendai or Yamagata, the reason this temple is famous should not come as a surprise. As its name suggests (yama means “mountain” in Japanese; dera) means temple), the various buildings of Risshaku-ji (which is official name of this “mountain temple”) are strewn across the side of a mountain. It’s a truly impressive sight!
The gorgeous geography of the alley beneath the temple allows you to enjoy it in two main ways. The first option is to admire it from ground level, both when your train arrives at the station, and also during your ~15-minute walk to the trailhead. Once you’ve reached the top, you can enjoy an incredible panorama, which is completely different during each of the four well-defined seasons in this inland part of Yamagata prefecture.
How to Structure Your Yamadera Day Trip
“Climb” first, do the rest later
I’m a big fan of working first and playing later, and my M.O. after traveling from Sendai to Yamadera is no different. After arriving by train, snap a couple of pictures of the temple looming in the distance, then cross the Tachiya River and walk to the Risshaku-ji entrance. Resist the temptation to poke around; instead, “climb” (which I put in quotes because the temple’s 1,017 steps aren’t steep) to the top.
Enjoy the view while you catch your breath
Even if you aren’t making the long journey from Tokyo to Yamadera, you’ll be tired by the time you’ve reached Godaidō (the temple’s iconic “Pavilion of the Masters” and the rickety-looking viewing platform behind it. Use its shade and shelter to catch your breath and get your bearings, and to kill two birds with one stone: As you start to cool off and calm down, you can capture amazing photos of the valley below.
Explore the temple’s lower areas
Take your time up-to—you don’t want to get halfway down and realized you didn’t get a shot you wanted! Then, once you’re there, admire the highlights on offer at ground-level, including Bakku-mon gate, Emperor Seiwa’s Treasure Tower and Konponchudō hall. If you happen to be visiting in summer, you can also enjoy freshly-made ice cream served with Yamagata sakuranbo (cherries) grown nearby.
Have a simple soba lunch
Speaking of food, another reason I advise climbing first is that it’s much easier to do on an empty stomach; the spartan eateries you find on the way back to Yamadera Station seem much more satisfying once you’ve already done what you came here to do. I usually love popping into one of the soba restaurants for both the simplicity of its noodles (which I enjoy hot in winter and cold in summer), but there are also a variety of shokudō serving more substantial meals.
Explore deeper into Yamagata
Unless you are totally pressed for time and need to head directly from Yamadera back to Sendai, I’d suggest using the rest of your day to dig deeper into underrated Yamagata prefecture. If you’re traveling by train, you may be limited to Yamagata City (though if it’s winter, squeezing in a bus journey from there up to otherworldly Zao Onsen is worth a bit of rushing). If you’ve rented a car, meanwhile, the sky…er the road is the limit. Head northward to the cherry-growing town of Sagae, or westward to Mt. Haguro or to Sakata, a port city famous for Geisha and sake.
How to Get to Yamadera from Sendai or Tokyo
Yamadera is extremely easy to access, in spite of seeming like it exists in another world. This is especially simple if you’re coming from either Yamagata or Sendai cities—simply ride the local JR Senzan Line from Yamagata Station or Sendai Station to Yamadera Station! If you’re coming from the Tokyo area, meanwhile, you will want to ride the Shinkansen (ideally a super-fast Hayabusa) to Sendai Station, then transfer there to the JR Senzan Line.
Once you arrive at Yamadera Station, take moment to enjoy the view of the temple from the station platform. Then, type “Risshaku-ji” into your maps application. It will take you around 15 minutes to reach the base of the temple; you’ll need to hike another 20-30 minutes up to the temple’s precipice. Note that in spite of how high it looks from the station, scaling the temple’s 1,017 stone steps is surprisingly quick work for most people.
Other FAQ About Your Day Trip from Sendai to Yamadera
How long does it take to climb Yamadera?
Before you “climb” Yamadera, you need to walk around 15 minutes from Yamadera Station to the ground-level entrance of the temple, which is officially known as Risshaku-ji. Past that point, scaling it steps (which are numerous—1,017—but not very steep) takes around 20-30 minutes, depending upon your fitness leve.
How long to spend at Yamadera?
While you could spend all day at Yamadera, I recommend choosing either the morning or the afternoon and staying no more than couple of hours. There’s just so much else to see in Japan’s Tohoku region—devoting an entire day to Yamadera would be wasteful.
Is Yamadera worth visiting?
Yamadera is absolutely worth visiting, assuming you have half a day to spare (if you’ll be in Sendai or Yamagata) or a full day, if you’re coming from Tokyo. It’s one of the most scenic and beautiful places in Japan, so coming here is a no brainer. It’s especially beautiful amid the colors of autumn and the deep snow of winter.
The Bottom Line
Traveling from Sendai to Yamadera is easy—it’s one of my favorite day trips anywhere in Japan. The key (which will be easy if you’re coming from Tokyo, rather than Sendai) is not arrive too early: The easy trail leading to the top doesn’t open until 8 AM. On the flip-side, Risshaku-ji (the “official” name of the temple we call “Yamadera”) is open 365 days per year, which means that you can take your Yamadera day trip in any of Japan’s four seasons. Need personalized help integrating this unique part of Japan into your trip plan? Commission a custom Japan itinerary—and let me sweat the details!
