Many Feburarys ago, at Ritsurin Garden in Takamatsu, I found myself confused. “Why on Earth do sakura bloom so early here?” I asked my guide (I was on a press trip organized by JTB, otherwise I wouldn’t have had one).
“These are ume,” she corrected me. “Plum blossoms.” She went on to point out some physical differences between the two types of flowers—ume are brighter than sakura, and have a more “prickly” appearance among others— and to explain that plum blossoms bloom much earlier than cherry blossoms.
Past that point, I became fascinated with plum blossoms in Japan, and have now made a point of seeing them as many places as I can. If you’re as interested in ume as I am, I hope you’ll continue reading!
When Do Plum Blossoms Bloom in Japan?
On one hand, the Japan plum blossoms are “easier” to enjoy than sakura. They last longer and are less prone to fluctuations in their bloom due to winter weather, since they tend to bloom in winter anyway. Most of the times that I’ve enjoyed ume, I’ve done so with very little premeditation and almost no stress. The majority of plum blossoms in Japan bloom in February, with the latter half of the month the typical peak period.
On the other hand, some of the best ume spots in Japan don’t reach full bloom until March, some of them not until mid or even late March. For example, the two destinations I’ve mentioned in Mie prefecture are much later blooming than those in Kyoto or Osaka, due mostly to their elevation. You should be mindful of this is your trip to Japan is in either February or March, but doesn’t extend deep into either month.
Top Plum Blossom Destinations in Japan
Kitano Tenman-gu, Kyoto
Never heard of Kitano Tenman-gu? Not to worry. While famous among Japanese people, this shrine is basically unknown to foreigners. Thankfully, it’s more or less on the way between the Kinkaku-ji Golden Pavilion and Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, so if you’re in Kyoto in mid-to-late February, it’s easy to stop here and see plum blossoms.
Osaka Castle, Osaka
On the other hand, you’re likely to visit Osaka Castle irrespective of the situation regarding plum blossom viewing in Japan. Still, late February to early March is my favorite period to come here. Without the unique colors and textures of ume, Osaka-jo (which is not one of Japan’s original castles, even if it is one of the most iconic) can be somewhat forgettable.
Inabe City Bairin Koen, Mie
Mie prefecture, conversely, is one of the least-visit parts of Japan, and the Inabe City Agricultural Park (or Bairin Koen—literally, “plum garden”—in Japanese) is far off whatever tourist trail you think Mie-ken has. It also blooms relatively late, in mid- (or, in some years late) March.
Kairaku-en, Ibaraki
Another underrated place to see ume in Japan is at Kairaku-en in Ibaraki, one of the only places in Japan less-visited than Mie. Somewhat curiously, the garden (which is located in the capital city of Mito) is known as being one of the top three gardens in Japan, a fact I’m sure has at least something to do with its plum blossoms.
Suzuka Forest Garden, Mie
Last but not least (and, as I explore ume more, probably not last for long) is Suzuka Forest Garden, also in Mie. Located relatively close to the beef-producing city of Matsusaka, this place features “weeping” plum trees, which are especially beautiful when they’re in full bloom. However, this happens pretty late here (just as it did up in Inabe). As you can see, my visit on March 10 of the year I went was a little early.
How to Integrate Plum Blossoms into Your Japan Trip
Because many top plum blossom sites are in major cities, there actually isn’t much “integration” that you need to do. If you plan to be in Kyoto because about mid-February and early March, for example, you can simply stop by Kitano Tenman-gu on your way between Kinkaku-ji and the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. Likewise, if you’ll be in Osaka, Osaka Castle is almost certainly on your pre-existing list.
Where ume blossoms in Japan get more complicated is if you want to go further off the beaten path. Kairaku-en is actually not too difficult. Located just 80 minutes from Tokyo’s Ueno Station by train, you can easily go there on a day trip from the capital. However, visiting the ume spots in Mie prefecture requires renting a car, so if you want to go there, I’d suggest that you plan to be in Nagoya (or even Tsu, Matsusaka or Ise) in mid-to-late March.
Other FAQ About Plum Blossom Viewing in Japan
When can you see plum blossoms in Japan?
Plum blossoms exist all over Japan, in basically every major city. Top spots, however, including popular tourist destinations like Osaka Castle and Kitano Tenman-gu, a shrine that’s convenient to many of Kyoto’s top attractions. You can also go further off the beaten path, be that at Kairaku-en in Mito, Ibaraki, or to various places in Mie prefecture.
Where can I see plum blossoms in Kyoto?
There are thousands of plum trees in Kyoto, but the very best place to see ume is at Kitano Tenman-gu in the northern part of the city near Kinkaku-ji temple. You’ll find a large number of trees here, and and they’re brightly colored as well, which contrasts beautifully with the vermillion of the main shrine structure.
Are plum blossoms and sakura the same?
Plum blossoms and sakura are both beautiful, but that’s where the similarities end. While cherry blossoms (at least the iconic somei yoshino) are whitish-pink and delicate in shape, plum blossoms tend to be bright pink or even fuchsia, and have a spiky shape that can almost be described as harsh. Furthemrore, plum blossoms bloom about a month earlier than cherry blossoms.
The Bottom Line
While plum blossoms in Japan are not as popular as cherry blossoms, they’re very widespread, and in many ways are easier (and, at a minimum, less stressful) to see. They bloom at times when Japan is not typically crowded; many of the top ume destinations in Japan are far off the tourist trail, in places like Mie and Ibaraki. On the other hand, because Japanese plum trees aren’t monitored as carefully as cherry trees, predicting blooming dates is less precise a science, meaning that you should have minimal (if any) expectations. Well, except for the fact that if you hire me to plan your Japan trip, I will leave nothing to chance.
