When I first visited Japan in 2014, attending a tuna auction (which then took place at the Tokyo‘s now-defunct Tsukiji Inner Market) was high on my list. This was strange—I’ve never had a huge interest in face—but I nonetheless found myself in a taxi at 3 AM, which got me into line in just enough time to make the cut-off.
Obviously, when the market closed in 2018, the tuna auctions stopped happening there. But you can still visit Tsukiji Market, in addition to (or, I would argue, instead of) Toyosu.
I’m getting ahead of myself, however, but don’t worry. I’ll dive deeper into the Tsukiji vs Toyosu debate in just a moment.
Why the 2018 “Transition” Was a Nothing-burger
When deciding between Tsukiji or Toyosu, you no doubt learned that Tsukiji “closed” in 2018, at which point the auctions were moved to the purpose-built Toyosu. This is true, but it’s not the whole story. For starters, while you used to be able to observe the auctions from mere feet away, Toyosu’s are only viewable from a platform high above the market floor (and through extremely glare-y glass).
Indeed, Tsukiji as a whole (which also has an Outer Market, and beyond that is an entire commercial neighborhood, which even has hotels) didn’t close. If anything, the loss of the Inner Market has made the Outer one even more interesting and dynamic; these days, it’s far more crowded than it ever seemed in the days prior to the closure (which I refer to, more accurately, as a “transition”).
Comparing Tsukiji with Toyosu
Tuna auction
Attending the Tsukiji tuna auction in 2014 was cool, but it didn’t change my life—and it certainly wasn’t worth waking up at 3 AM and paying almost ¥5,000 for a taxi ride. The only silver lining was how atmospheric the old market was! Toyosu is even farther (meaning a more expensive taxi ride from most of Tokyo, especially from Shinjuku and Shibuya), and since it’s sterile and soulless, I don’t see any reason to go.
Restaurants
Another way to compare Tsukiji and Toyosu, obviously, is in terms of the food. Since Tsukiji’s Inner Market closed, its Outer Market has become a foodie hub, with fresh sushi available as early as 6 or 7 AM, as well other snacks like seafood rice crackers and strawberry daifuku soft serve throughout the day. Toyosu is also home to some restaurants, but none that are terribly inspiring.
Retail
Tsukiji isn’t just great for eating—it’s also great for shopping. Whether you’re searching for seasonings like dashi or furikake, or even Japanese knives, Tsukiji is an amazing place to engage in some retail therapy. As is the case with restaurants, retail at Toyosu is similar to what you find at Tsukiji. The issue is that in place of decades-old shops and staff that literally live above them, Toyosu feels like a shopping mall.
Atmosphere and ambiance
I haven’t been subtle about how I regard Toyosu vs Tsukiji in this sense. Indeed, while Tsukiji’s Outer Market remains incredibly picturesque and really gives you a sense of being in Japan, the building for Toyosu (though ostensibly well-designed) could really be anywhere in the world. It’s not inviting or interesting; you won’t want to hang out there after you see the tuna auction (assuming you do).
Other things to do
Of course, the news for Toyosu is not all bad. The Toyosu neighborhood (and, more broadly, Obaiba island) is home to some incredible activities. Some travelers will walk into digital art at teamLab Planets, while others will take to the streets of Tokyo in go-karts. You can also enjoy an amazing view of Tokyo from the Fuji TV Sphere. Tsukiji, by contrast, is mostly about the market; upmarket Ginza is right up the street, however.
Other Amazing Fish Markets in Japan
Don’t get bogged down deciding between Toyosu or Tsukiji! Instead, visit both, as well as any of these other amazing Japanese seafood markets:
- Omicho Market, Kanazawa
- Karato Fish Market, Shimonoseki
- Kuromon Market, Osaka
- Uo-no-tana Market, Akashi
- Aomori Gyosai Center, Aomori
- Hakodate Morning Market, Hakodate
- Hirome Market, Kochi
Need personalized help putting your Japan foodie adventure together? Commission a custom Japan itinerary today!
Other FAQ About Toyosu and Tsukiji
Is the Tsukiji Fish Market still worth visiting?
If anything, Tsukiji Fish Market (which, these days, comprises only the “Outer Market”) is even more worth visiting now that the Inner Market has closed. You can’t see tuna auctions (and you don’t have to wake up at 3 AM), but you can eat sushi for breakfast, shop for cookware and knives or simply people-watch and take pictures.
Which fish market is best to visit in Tokyo?
I personally prefer Tsukiji Market over Toyosu Market, even if Tsukiji’s “Inner Market” (where the famous tuna auctions once took place) is now closed. Toyosu, by contrast, is sterile—which makes sense, given that it was purpose built in 2018.
Is Toyosu Market worth visiting?
As a seafood experience, Toyosu Market isn’t exciting. The purpose-built market lacks character or architectural merit; you have to view the “tuna auction” from several stories in the air. On the other hand, the Toyosu neighborhood (and, more broadly than that, Odaiba island) is very worth visiting, whether you drive go-karts, visit a digital art museum or enjoy one of Tokyo’s best views.
The Bottom Line
Comparing Tsukiji vs Toyosu, solely in terms of fish markets anyway, is a fool’s errand. While Toyosu technically now hosts the tuna auctions, the market is sterile and soulless, and not really worth a visit. Tsukiji Outer Market, by contrast, is if anything more interesting and exciting than it was pre-2018. Where Toyosu (and Odaiba island more broadly) shines is in other experience, such as the teamLab Planets digital art museum and Tokyo street karts; you can enjoy the area without setting foot in the market. Need personalized help putting your Tokyo trip together? Consider hiring me to plan it!
