I’ll never forget the night I fell in love with Kyoto—it was the first night I ever spent in the city. After having watched sunset from Kiyomizu-dera, whose full-bloom sakura trees provided the perfect filter to the day’s last light, I made my way down into Gion.
The bad news? I didn’t see a single Maiko or Geiko on that particular trip. Instead, I took one wrong turn and then another, and eventually found myself deep in the alleys of old Higashiyama, completely alone. It was 2014, but it could’ve been 1914, as far as the scene around me was concerned.
Since then, of course, I’ve returned to Kyoto dozens of times—I finally did see some Geisha, thank you for asking!—and even lived here for the better part of a year when I was studying Japanese. And so while the seed of my Kyoto itinerary was a single evening stroll, more than a decade of painstaking experience undergirds it.
Where to Stay in Kyoto
As you might imagine, I’ve built up quite the rolodex of Kyoto hotels during my decade-plus of exploring the city, which really run the gamut. This is assuming, of course, you want to stay in a hotel. Kyoto is famous for a number of traditional accommodations, from the ryokan guest house (the legendary Seikoro and the Kyoto no Yado Gion no Tsuki are probably my favorite example of this in the city) to larger Machiya-style townhouses, which are perfect for families, or just couples or solo travelers who want to spread out (I like Gion Shirakawa no Yado and The Villa Higashiyama).
On the other hand, given the magnitude of things to do Kyoto offers, you sometimes just want a front desk—and a bar! In this case, I really love the Dhawa Yura Hotel. It’s stylish and well-equipped; its bartenders serve a mean cocktail; and it’s just steps from Sanjo-Keihan Station, giving you access not only to the Kyoto City Subway, but to the useful Keihan Main Line. Another amazing choice? Sora Niwa Terrace, which sits right on the Kamo River and has a rooftop overlooking Higashiyama.
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How to Organize Your Kyoto Itinerary
Start in Higashiyama and Gion
My own personal story notwithstanding, the reality is that many Kyoto things to do are concentrated in the historical areas of Higashiyama and Gion. In addition to recommending that you stay near here, as above, I also suggest that you explore here the afternoon and evening you arrive. An “easy” circuit could take you over Tatsumi-bashi bridge (the best spot for spotting Geisha) and through Maruyama Park, past Hokan-ji pagoda and up Sannenzaka slope to Kiyomizu-dera.
Visit Arashiyama in the early morning
Likewise, a lot of what to see in Kyoto is in the western district of Arashiyama, from the famous Sagano Bamboo Grove, to Tenryu-ji temple and its Buddhist-vegan Shojin ryori meals, to Iwatayama Monkey Park. Going early in the morning guarantees the best light and the fewest crowds, though you can also help yourself out by heading a bit north—Adashino Nenbutsu-ji temple is a good target—and going quite literally off the beaten path. You can even hit Kinkaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji (the Golden and Silver temples, respectively) on your way back, if you want.
Hit Fushimi up on your way back from Nara
The orange gates of Fushimi Inari Shrine are another of the top things to do in Kyoto, and with good reason. However, I have a couple of tips to make your trip to this crowded site less miserable. First, stop here on your way back from Nara—it’s on the same train line. Second, make sure to walk at least 15 minutes past the entrance; most other tourists turn back before then. Finally, consider coming at night to make it an extra beautiful experience.
TIP: Want to see a more local side of Fushimi-ku? Take a sake-pairing tour with a lifelong resident of the district (who happens to be a close friend of mine!).
Venture to “Kyoto by the Sea”
When I first started coming to the city, sleepy Ine Fishing Village was not a popular example of what to do in Kyoto. These days, of course, hundreds of travelers per day make the trek up to “Kyoto by the Sea” (also sometimes collectively known as Kyotango), whether to chill in the funaya of Ine-cho, or to enjoy the view (one of the three best in Japan, according to…Japan) at Amanohashidate.
(Or up to Kurama-dera and Kifune-jinja)
An easy way to make your Kyoto itinerary more unique is to ride the Eizan Railway northward to Kibuneguchi Station. From here, set your GPS for Kifune-jinja shrine where, after taking some pictures and slurping “flowing” soumen noodles, you can walk over an actual mountain to Kurama-dera temple, which is also relatively uncrowded compare to the rest of the city.
Brave the crowds of the sakura and momiji seasons
On the other hand, the reality is that many of the best things to do in Kyoto are at their most beautiful when the crowds are at their most unrelenting. Arashiyama and the the Kyoto Imperial Palace, for example, look most beautiful amid peak autumn colors; cherry blossoms add an unmistakable elegance both on the beaten path (at Kiyomizu-dera or Nijo Castle) and far off it, such as when you take a canal boat tour in aforementioned Fushimi.
Come for a festival or event
Likewise, other top things to do in Kyoto literally coincide with festivals, be that the Gion Matsuri in July, the Joya-no-kane bell-ringing on New Year’s Eve, Geisha-related events like January’s Hatsuyori or April’s Miyako Odori. You can also use time in your trip to see more evergreen performances, such as Noh or Kabuki.
How Many Days Do You Need in Kyoto?
Many people get overwhelmed in Kyoto—what to do can seem almost endless, and it’s almost impossible not to get FOMO. However, I reject this dramatic framing. The reality is that you basically need two full days to see central Kyoto—spend your first evening exploring Higashiyama and Gion; head the next morning to Arashiyama, then hit up the Golden and/or Silver Temples on your way back east.
Any extra time can be used to explore secondary and tertiary areas (Kurama-dera and Kifune-jinja are great for this) or to take day trips, be those within the prefecture (i.e. Kyotango) or outside, such as Lake Biwa in Shiga to the east, or a three-in-one-adventure to Himeji, Kobe and Osaka further east. Still unsure as to how many days in Kyoto you need? Contact me to see how I can help!
Other FAQ About Visiting Kyoto
Is Kyoto still worth visiting?
I’m a bit of an “overtourism” skeptic in general, but even if I wasn’t, my argument is that the sheer variety of things to do in Kyoto makes it worth contending with crowds. Moreover, even if you can’t bear braving the madness of Kiyomizu-dera at sunset, dozens of Kyoto neighborhoods are completely tourist-free, and even Highashiyama and Gion are very quiet late and night and early in the morning.
What’s the best time of year to visit Kyoto?
The most beautiful times of year to visit Kyoto are during the first week of April for cherry blossoms, and the last week of November for autumn colors. However, Kyoto is truly a 365-day destination, with an evergreen assortment of attractions and experiences that can charm you, no matter the date on the calendar.
How do I get around in Kyoto?
Getting around in Kyoto is relatively simple. The city’s subway exists in a “cross” pattern—the north-south Karasuma Line can take you to and from the train station, while the east-west Tozai Line can connect you to Higashiyama and Gion. Beyond this, local train lines are useful: The JR Sagano Line from Kyoto and Nijo stations to Arashiyama; the Keihan Main Line from Sanjo and Gion-Shijo Stations to Fushimi. Buses can connect the dots even further; Kyoto is also eminently walkable.
The Bottom Line
I’ve recently refined my Kyoto itinerary, making it more concise and streamlined than ever. This was no small task: More than a decade of travel experience undergirds it—I’ve visited Kyoto in every season, during festivals and events and even lived here for nearly a year when I was learning Japanese. And yet I’ve also tried to leave space within it for the sorts of quiet moments (getting lost, quite literally) that first made me fall in love with Japan’s ancient capital all those years ago. The best way to incorporate an unforgettable swing through Kyoto into your next trip? Commissioning a custom Japan itinerary, of course!
